Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone in canberra done a rb25 into r32 conversion? I Just need to talk to someone about wiring, as the topics on here aren't too clear.

I will be using the rb25 loom with r33 ecu and a microtec (model escapes me for now) and was curious about what wires etc need to be added/spliced to the r32 body loom/dash in order to keep aircon and wipers running as usual? Anyone got any suggestions or know about this?

Original motor is an RB20DET manual.

Hope that question is easy to understand, sounded clearer in my head haha.

I've done it in my R32.

You will need to rewire the Wipers, not too difficult I think the colours matched. I found a wiring diagram somewhere on the internet which was much better than some peoples "guides".

I never bothered with wiring the A/C because it didn't work anyway, but I think it only requires the blue compressor wire.

  On 05/05/2011 at 2:15 AM, zebra said:

I would just use the RB20 ecu, the Microguess doesnt have output for the VCT from memory.

Im sure others can clarify

In doing this I would need to re-map the ecu yeah? I have an r33 loom and computer, so I would rather just swap loom and ecu instead of paying through the nose to tune a stock motor (well, kinda stock).

I have 2 looms and 2 ecus, one with the microtec (unsure whether it does VCT or not) and one without, so I can use either. Doing the wiring doesnt bother me, just there is a lack of diagrams out there.

Yeah fair enough, I'm of the belief that NISTUNE would be much better for a street car than an Microtech.

there are a heap of people using the R32 loom and ecu for 25 conversions, you can also get a MSD RPM switch to trigger the VCT.

So yeah depend on what you want to do,

Nistune looks stock and is better suited to street cars.

  On 05/05/2011 at 7:52 AM, k_d said:

Nah, it's not that one I used but looks like it's more helpful than the first doco I tried to use.

Hi Kyle,

I put an R33 RB25DET and gearbox in my R32 GTS-T a few years ago, I can't really answer your wiring question because I had the wiring for mine done by an auto electrician... But for the tail-shaft you are better off getting a single piece made custom to fit with a decent set of uni joints if you plan on extracting a reasonable amount of power out of the engine.

I had mine made at the Diff Doctor in Fyshwick and it cost me about $600 (he doesn't balance them though so you will need to find a shop that can balance it, I think there is one in Mitchell) - make sure you have it balanced properly otherwise you'll get a bad vibration through the car under load.

All you need to do is measure the distance from the back of the gearbox (where the front yoke goes in) to the diff and take the measurement to the shop along with the old tail shaft (so he can use the rear yoke for your diff) and he'll weld it all together for you.

Cheers

Mick

Thanks for that Mick. I am trying to avoid going custom because of the $$ factor. The place you are talking about in mitchell is M&A Engineering yeah? I work around the corner from them so ill go have a chat tomorrow about it.

The bloke that I bought motor and box off had them in an r31 that used to have a 20det in it before the 25, so im curious if the shaft will be a straight swap into the 32? If so ill just buy it off him to save the hassle. He wont be needing it as he is aparently going custom to fit whatever box goes into it (wont be an rb).

Im not looking for massive amounts of power, Motor has 175rwkw (got a dyno sheet from esp) on 6psi, so ill go 14psi once I get some splitfire coil packs. Motor has been rebuilt using acl gold bearings, aside from that has a HKS plenum, fleabay turbo (goes hard but) and microtec Ltx8 ecu. Not looking to push it more than that, its only in a 1200kg 32 after all lol.

Just need to sell the 20 and associated stuff and its a go ahead. Reckon I could knock it over in a weekend with a few mates? We have had shitloads of experience with motor swaps and stuff so im guessing we should be able to.

Cheers,

Kyle

Edited by k_d

My advise is when you sell the RB20, ditch the Microguess and Get Nistune, you wont regret it :)

Was the guys R31 local or an Import?

Local ones has a Live rear end the same as a VL commodore, so the Shafts are different.

P.s I'm normally good at spelling...but I has beer!

\

  On 08/05/2011 at 11:02 AM, zebra said:

nothing particularly wrong with a microguess lol

But there is much bettererer out there

Yeah, probably, but I got this for free so Im not complaining.

Man, this tailshaft problem is doing my head in.

  On 08/05/2011 at 6:41 AM, k_d said:

Thanks for that Mick. I am trying to avoid going custom because of the $$ factor. The place you are talking about in mitchell is M&A Engineering yeah? I work around the corner from them so ill go have a chat tomorrow about it.

The bloke that I bought motor and box off had them in an r31 that used to have a 20det in it before the 25, so im curious if the shaft will be a straight swap into the 32? If so ill just buy it off him to save the hassle. He wont be needing it as he is aparently going custom to fit whatever box goes into it (wont be an rb).

Im not looking for massive amounts of power, Motor has 175rwkw (got a dyno sheet from esp) on 6psi, so ill go 14psi once I get some splitfire coil packs. Motor has been rebuilt using acl gold bearings, aside from that has a HKS plenum, fleabay turbo (goes hard but) and microtec Ltx8 ecu. Not looking to push it more than that, its only in a 1200kg 32 after all lol.

Just need to sell the 20 and associated stuff and its a go ahead. Reckon I could knock it over in a weekend with a few mates? We have had shitloads of experience with motor swaps and stuff so im guessing we should be able to.

Cheers,

Kyle

No problem Kyle,

Yeah, thats them M&A Engineering, they can probably make the whole shaft for you... I personally wouldnt bother using a stock 2 peice shaft because once you start pushing more power through it (and believe me, you will) it will start sh!tting the centre bearing regularly... I know from experience.

"Im not looking for massive amounts of power" - thats what I said to begin with but then I got bitten by the bug and had to have more... Believe me, having 300+kw in a lightweight R32 GTS-T is a lot of fun! :D

Cheers

Mick

  On 13/05/2011 at 7:26 AM, Bullet32 said:

No problem Kyle,

Yeah, thats them M&A Engineering, they can probably make the whole shaft for you... I personally wouldnt bother using a stock 2 peice shaft because once you start pushing more power through it (and believe me, you will) it will start sh!tting the centre bearing regularly... I know from experience.

"Im not looking for massive amounts of power" - thats what I said to begin with but then I got bitten by the bug and had to have more... Believe me, having 300+kw in a lightweight R32 GTS-T is a lot of fun! :D

Cheers

Mick

hmm I wouldn't go near an aftermarket tailshaft with a 10 foot barge pole. Unless you've spent a good deal on it. A lot of hi power skylines are running stock two piece tailshafts, so I don't see the issue with them.

i never had any issues with any of my single piece tailshafts.

  On 13/05/2011 at 7:26 AM, Bullet32 said:
Believe me, having 300+kw in a lightweight R32 GTS-T is a lot of fun! :D

know whats more fun...?:nyaanyaa:

Ok so motor and stuff are in, just need to mount battery in boot to allow for the cooler piping and attach heater hoses, and figure out why my power steering pump doesnt want to go on. Im keeping the 20 box for the time being, just need to not drive like a cock haha. It just needs wiring and the few little things above done then its good to go.

Edited by k_d

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh... literally every time i jump on a forum, see an instagram post or see an engine bay at a car show, i get an idea and add it to my 'to do' list. So what started off as, hey can u just make a couple of intake hard pipes because my dumbass bought the wrong apexi kit, blew out into a 2 week job including braided brake lines & custom bash kit for the front lip haha.  Getting Luke from A4E engineering to make a full custom exhaust with a controllable aes dump valve so i can actually switch between quiet and loud, because right now its just loud all day every day. Then after that go and get the tune redone flex e85 & 98 as i get bugger all milage from e85, makes going for longer drivers difficult
    • Car looks clean as. You ended up getting quite a bit done 馃槀  So what's the plan for the exhaust? 
    • The only Neo rods that were any different to any other RB25 rods were the DET ones, and they were the same as RB26. Here is a Neo DET rod. O5U part number visible. Here is a post in a thread here on SAU with evidence from someone who has done this before. There are photos in the thread of normal RB25 rods.  
    • Sure, but why assume that will be the case forever? And why assume you'll be able to do an oil change to swap back to a stock drain bolt before that happens? And does it even matter when I change the oil at fairly short intervals? Life can be funny sometimes and unexpected things can happen. Like breaking a collarbone so you can't do any work on your car for a few months but the oil change is due so you have to take it to somewhere and hope they don't do something stupid like stacking the new drain plug washer on top of the old one.
    • Do u know how to identify the rods are rb25 or neo ones? Can u look into the pics and tell me is they de or de neo ones. Its confusing becoz my motor has de neo head but block is 25de 75t, so really confusing me about rods, crank.
  • Create New...