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Towbar For M35?

adney

By adney,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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ClassOne Enthusiast

ClassOne

Posted
Posted

It's funny that the only cars mentioned to have cracked rear frames didn't have tow bars

Your comment makes no sence as the bars are only rated for 70kg or so down on the ball, and the pulling force is not directly linked to the sub frame.

If the trailer trailer/ tow ball height combination is level and the trailer is loaded wIth it's weight over the axel then there will be no issues.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Go nuts then. Doesn't mean I'm going to do it with my car. Yes, I know how tow balls are rated.

Look, I'm not trying to be a prick. I just don't think its an awesome idea on a car that wasn't designed for it. We know the subframe cracks, we know overloading causes it.

If you plan to tow big and long, please make sure you have an external tranny cooler, and you have seen to the turbo banjo, and the turbo is in tip top condition. I know another Stagea (C34) drivers been through 3 china turbos, probably because he tows a car with it! Maybe even get a radiator upgrade.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's funny that the only cars mentioned to have cracked rear frames didn't have tow bars

Your comment makes no sence as the bars are only rated for 70kg or so down on the ball, and the pulling force is not directly linked to the sub frame.

If the trailer trailer/ tow ball height combination is level and the trailer is loaded wIth it's weight over the axel then there will be no issues.

That's not entirely true, but it's not my place to identify the cars. Also, it seems more prevalent in vehicles with HICAS for some reason.

I have a tow bar on mine (the Fast Fit towbar was designed on my car); and frankly, I believe they just aren't suited to towing something the weight of a car. I put a tonne in my trailer over relatively short distances (100km max), but I wouldn't want to do any more than that. I only end up with around 30-40kg on the ball in my "worst case scenario". I haven't had any cracking issues.

There is no real chassis structure in the rear of the car that is suited to the forces you'll be putting through the rear sheetmetal.

All you are really using is the rear bar reo mounts; and this is a structure designed for compressive forces(think rear impact), not to be held in tension. The legs that go under the car are only there to stop you applying torsion (leverage) to the reo mounts; not to carry any great load.

As Alex said; go for your life if that's what you want to do, but just be aware. There are many other cars better suited to towing heavy loads; and have 2000+kg rated factory Hayman Reese towbars.

Edited by Daleo
  • 3 months later...
sideburnie Rookie

sideburnie

Posted
Posted

Hi all, was searching about sub frame cracking, as my stagea ARX has it on both sides of the upper subframe. I was wondering if there was any evidence for what the cause was - I baby mine pretty well and dont dump it off the line... BUT i moved house earlier in the year and loaded heaps of gear in it - AMAZING HOW MUCH YOU CAN FIT!!! So ..... That could be the main reason ... damn. Well it sat pretty low a few times... I had to move a 3 car garage...

Now.. can someone tell me how difficult it was to remove and repair. I imagine a good TIG welder could fix it pretty easy. Has someone done it ? did you re-enforce it with a peice of al over the top of the crack? thanks

  • 1 year later...

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