Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb30 Build

Chi100188
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chi100188 Mentor

Chi100188

Posted
Posted

Hey guys heres my build plan would this be adequate just for using as a street car:

RIPS RB30 Stock internal bottom ends, with RIPS modifications, fully refreshed

Standard R33 RB25DET VCT head *is there any modifications needed or just bolt on?*

R33 GTST PFC with boost controller kit

Yellow Jacket ignition coils

Walbro 255l Fuel pump

GTR intake plenum with 700cc injectors

HKS 3037 Pro S turbo *should i go bigger to a GT35R?*

Items in consideration:

Nitto Oil pump

Enlarged Sump

Cheers

Chi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363243-rb30-build/
Share on other sites
Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

Sounds 'adequate' to me for a street car haha.

There is heaps of info in the stickies above on what mods are required to get the twin cam head onto the rb30 bottom end.

Only comment I will make is that if you choose the 3037 then make sure you get the larger 0.87 housing if possible. I would recommend either a kando T67 or a 3076 with 0.82 housing. For a street car I would leave the GT35R alone.

You might as well go larger injectors to give yourself more headroom and if you ever decide to run E85. I would go ID1000's. Not sure whether that fuel pump will be enough.

Will you be using standard exhaust manifolds?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363243-rb30-build/#findComment-5796770
Share on other sites
Alf Proficient

Alf

Posted
Posted

Standard R33 RB25DET VCT head *is there any modifications needed or just bolt on?*

HKS 3037 Pro S turbo *should i go bigger to a GT35R?*

The head bolts on but you can weld up/ block the VVT oil feed and shape the water gallery next to it and shape it to suit the rb30 water jacket. If you dont then there is approx 1mm of sealing area around that water jacket.

Go the 35R, the difference in price is nothing for the extra increase in power, you will be wanting more when u max out the 3037

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363243-rb30-build/#findComment-5796955
Share on other sites
Chi100188 Mentor

Chi100188

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the 26 plenum i have a blitz adaptor plate kit for it to be bolted on mmmm I think the RIPS 30 block has all the modifications so the head is to be bolted on without having to block the VCT oil feed etc ill email RIPS about this, exhaust manifold wise if i get a GT35R i will be going a 6boost manifold. but is the nitto oil pump needed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363243-rb30-build/#findComment-5796982
Share on other sites
JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

the 26 plenum i have a blitz adaptor plate kit for it to be bolted on mmmm I think the RIPS 30 block has all the modifications so the head is to be bolted on without having to block the VCT oil feed etc ill email RIPS about this, exhaust manifold wise if i get a GT35R i will be going a 6boost manifold. but is the nitto oil pump needed?

iirc it has an external feed set up. theres no way of doing it without blocking the original feed, as it overlaps with a water gallery on the 30 block. the other way thats on here is to feed vct oil from the cam buckets by drilling out a brass fitting in the head

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363243-rb30-build/#findComment-5797002
Share on other sites
Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

Go the 35R, the difference in price is nothing for the extra increase in power, you will be wanting more when u max out the 3037

I disagree, there is car on here (Al's) with an RB2530, he runs a GT3076 0.82 and makes 330rwkw with unbelievable response.

My argument is that I would prefer a super responsive ~330rwkw setup then a less responsive ~370rwkw setup for the street. It depends on the driver too on what they prefer.

I have just changed from a 280rwkw setup on an RB25 with less reponse and changed to 250rwkw with amazing response and it would beat the previous setup in all times but a rolling start from 80+ km/h

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363243-rb30-build/#findComment-5797416
Share on other sites
Alf Proficient

Alf

Posted
Posted (edited)

I disagree, there is car on here (Al's) with an RB2530, he runs a GT3076 0.82 and makes 330rwkw with unbelievable response.

My argument is that I would prefer a super responsive ~330rwkw setup then a less responsive ~370rwkw setup for the street. It depends on the driver too on what they prefer.

I have just changed from a 280rwkw setup on an RB25 with less reponse and changed to 250rwkw with amazing response and it would beat the previous setup in all times but a rolling start from 80+ km/h

At 378rwkw I have no lag with a GT35R .82

Edited by Alf
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363243-rb30-build/#findComment-5797916
Share on other sites
r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Wow you just created the first turbocharged vehicle to not have lag!!!

I think you mean the lag you have is acceptable for you. Put the car in 5th gear at 60km/h and tell me you have no lag.

Im almost there with that feat! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363243-rb30-build/#findComment-5797985
Share on other sites
r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

lol. ahhh it would appear I did...:whistling:

But to get back on point, the most responsive our race car ever was, was when it had a gt30 on it. Exact build spec was standard head and valves with tomei stage 1 cams retaining the vct, 6boost manifold with gt30 with .82 rear, 8.2:1CR and we were making 320rwkws. Then when we put a water methanol setup on it it bumped upto about 360rwkws and it was amazing! Pulled like a steam train but used to die off abit early up high.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363243-rb30-build/#findComment-5799441
Share on other sites
Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

lol. ahhh it would appear I did...:whistling:

But to get back on point, the most responsive our race car ever was, was when it had a gt30 on it. Exact build spec was standard head and valves with tomei stage 1 cams retaining the vct, 6boost manifold with gt30 with .82 rear, 8.2:1CR and we were making 320rwkws. Then when we put a water methanol setup on it it bumped upto about 360rwkws and it was amazing! Pulled like a steam train but used to die off abit early up high.

Exactly, what speed did it die off up high? I am tipping way above legal road speeds. Why such low compression??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363243-rb30-build/#findComment-5800060
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • GTSBoy
      Turn signal wiring question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...