Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so went for a personal loan as i was going to buy a new ve sv6 black ute for 28G but they would only give me 20G ( first loan ) so i already own a daily tx3 laser and a R32 Gts-T skyline 1989 type m which is currently sitting in storage not gettinv used.

So i then got thinking what i could do to it with 20 grand but wanted some ideas off everyone what you would do to build a good street / odd track car.

Its been resprayed in some kind of blue which im happy with has type m side skirts and rear pods, gtr front bar, n1 boot lip, has work - vs edition rims 17's good offset, nismo adjustable shocks and unknown springs there red guessing pedders, kkr adjustable castor rods.

Brass button clutch, rebuilt rb20det, r34 series one turbo, microtech lt-12's, front mount, 3" exhaust, high flow cat, 3" dump, unknown fuel pump injectors coilpacks, has a direct earth engine kit, also have a high mount mani with tial 38mm gate.

Have fair few guages ive just bought for it and also a short shift kit and $600 worth of hids which i got for $50 off a mate out of his supra.

Have a Few other things for it laying around. but where would i go from here build a rb20 with td-06 or chuck a rb25 in it our build a rb30det??

What would be the best one for a responsive street / occasional drifter

Thanks for any repliez happy to hear all of your thoughts cheers jahn.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363346-help-me-spend-20000/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • 'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
    • So unsafe would you say now?   little bit of has come off, guess road salt is a nightmare for Japanese car. Mx5 here have a well known issue or rotting 
    • Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
×
×
  • Create New...