Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Driving along, went to change into second, pushed clutch in and heard a loudish crack... then discovered the clutch wasn't disengaged. I'm guessing it's likely the master cylinder has shit itself as the same thing happened to the VL once, though it could the pivot point or something I've heard is apparently "weak" with these gearboxes...

Thoughts? Had to cruise over to aunt's place with only 2nd gear zzzz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363393-so-i-just-lost-my-clutch/
Share on other sites

Well car is IN Kambah at the moment out the front of my aunt's place, their neighbour runs a mechanic business from his backyard. Might get him to sort it since it's there lol. I'm really hoping it's the master cylinder like the VL :(

It's not losing fluid that I noticed, but it can still be the master cylinder. With the VL I used to drive, the exact same thing happened (though I didn't hear/feel the snapping of whatever broke) while changing from 4th to 5th on the highway. The pedal would have no resistance until just before the floor, which wasn't enough to disengage the clutch. Turned out there is a spring inside the master cylinder that had snapped into 3 pieces, and however the master cylinder worked it was required to allow it to pump fluid through to the slave. Something has snapped, so I'm thinking it's either the same deal with something inside the master cylinder, or the fork pivot has snapped. Will find out soon enough, at least the car is right next door to a backyard mechanic who'll apparently do mates rates for me...just gotta find the culprit then get him to replace it :)

The dude next door to my Aunt's place will have a look at it over the next few days. He runs a business called "Pal's Automotive" or something similar, so at least he's got a hoist etc :P

He'll let me know what's broken then I'll go from there I suppose, though I did get my aunt to pump the clutch while I had my head on the ground watching the slave cylinder - it moves, just not nearly as much as I think it should. Good sign in a way I suppose

rofl, not THAT clutch >.>

yeah Jono that was the first thing I looked at, unfortunately that ain't the problem. It's been suggested part of the whole bracket that the pedal is held in place by has snapped....I dunno, haven't heard anything from the mechanic dude yet, though I told him no rush. I'm not too fussed about riding everywhere on a pushy lol

Pedal box broke. Need new pedal box. FML.

Although somehow bleeding the system plus removing an apparently unneeded reservoir near the slave cylinder has given me use of my clutch again.....anyone explain???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
×
×
  • Create New...