Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs Brand New - Art Pipes, Cross Drilled/slotted Rotors, Y Pipe

robbo33
 Share

Recommended Posts

robbo33 Community Regular

robbo33

Posted
Posted (edited)

-Brand new in box Advanced Resonace Tuning pipes to suit v35 coupe. Cost $635 delivered from motordyne in the states. $500 pick up

-Brand new in box cross drilled and slotted rotors front and rear to suit NON BREMBO brakes. Cost $600 also from the states. $450 pick up.

-Used ichiba stainless steel y-pipe. Also imported from the states, only about 500klm. As new condition. Upgraded to motordyne exhaust which comes with a y-pipe. $250 pick up

Reason forsale have just sold car.

More parts will be added when i sort out the garage!

Located maroubra nsw

Cheers,

Michael 0422172482

Edited by robbo33
robbo33 Community Regular

robbo33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry for the confusion, there is no MD exhaust forsale, just the ichiba y pipe and ART pipes. The reason im selling the Ichiba y-pipe is because i upgraded to a motordyne exhaust which comes with a ypipe.

jawrgy Community Regular

jawrgy

Posted
Posted

tried to send you a pm but got an error saying you could not receive any new messages.

What i wanted to know was some details on the slotted rotors you have got for sale. What brand are they and where did you get them from. eg USA or locally.

Also will they fit a 2004 Coupe?

THANKSS

btw about the headlights i was after 2006+

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I picked up my block and head last week and have been slowly assembling it since then. Pictures I took earlier this week. The rest of the auxiliaries are on now. I just have my intake manifold runners to tap for my WMI direct port setup before putting it back on. I should hopefully have the motor back in by this weekend.   
    • TurboTapin
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I couldn't agree more. As an owner of a built high HP skyline, I'd be a hypocrite to not buy a Hummer for the reasons you listed though haha. 
    • PranK
      Hiya!

      By PranK · Posted

      Hahaha oh shit! Again!
    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea boot lid probs

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Is this the one? https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=2192&rewrite=nissan-stagea-c34-rear-boot-actuator-assembly-90550-0v000 Might be worth having a look at yahoo japan as well. Though it seems a bit odd. If the motor works itself, other than being noisy, then wouldn't it be more likely that it's an electrical issue somewhere else? And it being noisy does not seem as surprising if it has been chugging away for months  
    • BCs300z
      Stagea boot lid probs

      By BCs300z · Posted

      I know this thread is quite old, but I found it, it helped me, but I also wanted to add my experience and troubleshooting finds to the chat for others. I have not been able to open the rear hatch of my 97 Stagea for several months. Figured it had just really sealed itself up over the winter and I would just get to it eventually. Well that day was yesterday. Some time ago, I noticed my battery was going flat all the time. It was frustrating. Then one quiet night in the garage, I could hear and ever so slight humming / grinding noise coming from the back of the car. It was like a really quiet popping sound or something like sand in a very low speed blender. I took off the panels in the back and noticed the noise coming from the auto close motor, so I unplugged it and the noise stopped. And the auto close was disabled. Well, fast forward to yesterday, I tried all the tricks with power and fuse and lock and unlock and I still could open the damn hatch. So I took off the panels from the inside and found the auto lock had engaged and was stuck in close position. When plugging and unplugging the fuse, I could hear the relay clicking. So I plugged the autoclose motor back in, and the damn thing let go. And immediately started making that grinding sound again. This time, instead of just unplugging the motor, I pulled the fuse, thus depowering the relay entirely. I don't have the autoclose feature now, but at least I can open the boot and not have my battery being sucked dead all the time. Not sure what caused the motor to latch when it was unplugged from the system, but I am pretty sure it won't cause any more problems now.  If anyone has a lead on a new motor, please let me know. It's a cool feature that I would like to get back.  Hope this helps.
×
×
  • Create New...