R32 Gtst Problem Child

[beemae30]

Hey guys,

Few little issues that are nigglying me with my 32. Searched and havent found much thats revelant to me. Car has following mods

160,000kms

550cc injectors *previous owner reckons they are and looking at them (red top denso's)

hks pod filter,

cooling pro front mount,

walbro fuel pump * previous owner,

immobilizer,

greddy turbo timer,

stock everything else

Issue number 1 im having is it takes a good 5 seconds to start on a cold morning and when it starts it runs rough for a few seconds till it goes to cold idle. I believe it could be the battery? its some crappy 270cca super cheap auto jobby, Ive also noticed the idle sits at 900 when warm with a/c on. Seems a little high to me.

The car also has dropped into limp home mode randomly and then randomly pulled itself together which seems to have gone away since i cleaned, dielectric greased the afm, and cleaned the pod/re-oil. But it still occasionally will bog after a boost hit gear change. i believe this is the Cheap GFB bov. It's plumb back and im pretty sure its leaking. The car also had a shitload of boost leaks which would have caused the limp home mode to occour.

Issue number 2 is hicas issue i think. When i go from stand still to full noise aggresivly the neutral of my steering wheel changes from about 5" east to about 45" then after about 1 hour of driving it will return to 5" east or if i turn it off it will return to neutral. I'm thinking the speed sensitivity is playing havic with the hicas solenoid.

[DVS JEZ]

What ecu is it. Sounds like it needs a tune

[beemae30]

Standard ecu with a remap *according to the Previous owner.

[beemae30]

Do you think the shit tune could cause the starting issue?

[yumcha33]

inconsistent limp mode could still easily be the AFM, it may just come back. Try things like wiggling the plug while it is running...

Clean your AAC valve for better cold idle and starts.... Starter motor?

Is the car in Limp Mode for sure? Or is it just misfiring. Check your CAS to!

[beemae30]

yeah it definitly went to limp mode wouldnt get above 2500rpm without hardcore jerking/sputtering/missfiring etc. Even with gentle throttle application so no boost would happen. Im thinking it's because its never been cleaned it was absolutly fithly and so was the pod filter that was on it. The previous owner did f**k all maintence.

Will do the aac valve this weekend. and the starter motor is fine its not a drama with cranking its once its running it sputters and farts around for about 3 seconds till it picks up to cold idle which is around 1200rpm. Cas has been replaced with a mitsubishi unit?? So its been replaced as well. Its been good the last few days so i don't know im just gonna do a full maintence oils,spark plugs, coil packs, new cas, new afm, clean the aac or possibly replace. See how it goes from there

[beemae30]

Ok guys it did it again twice tonight. Once on and off heavy throttle gear change and again on a smooth 4th gear boost pull. It's definitly fuel related as it doesnt back fire or miss etc. It just fully cuts out then comes back in just as quick. Also whats everyones charging volts. With lights/ac/ stereo at night im pulling 13.2v which sounds pretty good.

[beemae30]

Any ideas on the steering issues?

[bubba]

Any ideas on the steering issues?

Get rid of the HICAS.

[beemae30]

Yeah that's were in leadin to

[Rekin]

Do you have a non-standard steering wheel fitted? Is the Hicas light on?

[beemae30]

Hicas light isnt on and yes has a momo wheel and boss to suit

[beemae30]

Done it some more lately bogs for a quick second then all is good its almost like the tps isnt reading as it bogs then i gradually increase the throttle and then it picks back up.

[pipster11]

re-solder the afm

there is a thing in the diy section about rb26 afms, same deal

also check the fuel filter (always get neglected) and check all your hose clamps on the intercooler piping

[beemae30]

Cheers, replaced the fuel filter and checked all the clamps when i pulled the afm to clean it. Dodgy pins on the afm would make sense.

[beemae30]

resoldered the joins, one was definitly cracked so hopefully that solves my problem. Also stripped my gfb bov and gave it a wet and dry as it was fluttering gave it a relub and put it back on and it works much better still thinking of going a turbosmart stealth one.

[beemae30]

Still does it. It seems to idle at 300-400rpm roughly until i touch the throttle. Once i touch it it idles fine drives fine etc. Any ideas?

[DVS JEZ]

Do u mean only on cold start?

If so u may need to clean the iac valve and aac valve.

Has the bogging issue always been there?

[beemae30]

Yeah but i fixed it with the afm solder. I found today the GFB bov is leaking and i pulled it off and found the o-ring for seating it wasnt even put on so i pulled it off and resealed it bodgy and tomorrow i will fix it properly. And i cleaned the aac but i stripped the head off one of the bolts for the iac so tomorrow when i get to work and i have some decent tooling i will pull it off and give it a clean.

[beemae30]

Also found my hard lines for my fuel just before they go to the soft lines to the pump/tank are rusty so i will probably drop the tank fit new soft lines and sand paper/ rust proof them.