Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 133
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah gotta get rid of it. Did have a k&n but it rubbed on the bonnet so think I'll just get an apexi. Yeah once my consult arrives I will check timing on start up. Will try and start this arve to see if starts up straight away like yesterday

My CAS was weird. Everything seemed fine but I got random knock every now and then and it was making alot of noise. Pulled it out and you could barely spin it. Car has run much nicer with the new CAS. Having said that, the old one never caused any idle issues but if you can borrow another one its something else you can rule out.

Make sure you set base timing and probably do an ecu reset as well

Just a few things...

Everyone of my RB20s (3 in total) all had a wierd surge/hesitation when coming on boost for the first time when cold - I believe one person had found a fix for it... I seem to think it was CEFFIE (or some similar user id - the guy that does the chips for the rb20 ecus)

but once they are warmish - that issue goes away.

Pod filter - I had a blitz pod filter which mounts on to the AFM - on the RB20, this ALWAYS surged and kinda jerked around.

I then used a different pod on an extension pipe and it worked fine.

see here..

post-343-0-12398600-1338266966_thumb.jpg

Also have awesome sauce box for it..

post-343-0-07834200-1338267017_thumb.jpg

you can have them cheap cheap if you like.

Yeah will check first Cal and then I might grab it off ya if it's the CAS. It started perfect yesterday before I drove it to site. So will try this arve and see. Haha I just finished making a box bugger. So nah thanks for the offer though. Will just go a nice apexi power funnel I think nice and stubby.

My point about the filter was having a free flowing pod right against the afm may be causing the issue as air comes in from all directions.

having a slight extension pipe so the air smoothes out before hitting the AFM might help.

Also, if you have the mesh off the front of the AFM (which helps smooth out air flow) it will also cause problems.

ive also got the same cold start issue as you. will idle rough for a few seconds in the morning and struggle to build oil pressure unless i give it a rev. it doesnt have any other sutters or problems and isnt hard to start. its a 33 n/a . hope you find a solution

Rb20 on stock ecu will feel sluggish until water temp hits 65deg. Baby it until over that temperature. It retards the timing until 65deg. I'll have a look tomorrow morning at the ignition timing value for your own info.

Past week I have been getting rough idle and dropping to the point of nearly stalling. no new mods to cause this change. Cleaned the aac and Iacv and problem still there. I wonder if it could be linked to cold start issue (which I have had prior to this idle issue)

Will clean afm and see if that's fixed at least one problem...

what price u looking at for the filter/pipe set up?

I dunno.. 50 bucks?

I've also got a consult port cable and screen thingy I'd sell..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/394910-qld-fs-ecudatascan/page__p__6336586__hl__ecudatascan__fromsearch__1#entry6336586

Might be handy for your trouble shooting

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I usually source pressure on inlet manifold after throttle body
    • Where is the best location for boost pressure source when running mac 3port boost solenoid?  my new turbo does not have a fitting for that on the compressor housing.  how come Garrett make a turbo without that?  im confused 
    • From my memory, which isn't that great, we did have issues getting the large throttle body on my old LS1 to play nicely at idle, first it would stall, then it would only idle at 2k rpm, then it would hang at 2k rpm for a few seconds and then drop and stall, then, finally, the best we got was it would hang at 1.5k rpm for a few seconds then drop to around 800 rpm The tuner stated that large cable throttle bodies are a PITA, and if I wanted anything better than what we ended up with I would need a electronic throttle body and all of the aftermarket ECU stuff to run it
    • So, my intake arrived  I'm not happy with the coating finish so I went to Supercheap and got some black wrinkle paint and some prep stuff I was initially thinking about using grey wrinkle paint, but finding a quality product that gives the texture I want was "unfindable...", so the tried and tested black wrinkle paint is again finding its way into the engine bay for the OEM look I'll sneakily head into work and get the big ovens cranking to cure the paint over the next week or so I've also contacted MX5 Mania today to talk about the install and tune, so painting it is my "main effort" prior to sending the car off In other news, the correspondence from the US supplier is fair to midling to say the least, I'm still trying to track down the intake box thingie with the larger intake pipe to suit the throttle body, it still is "awaiting fulfilment" (no stock currently available), if it isn't here soon I'll just get MX5 Mania to fabricate up a CAI that is easy to service the air filter  
    • Thanks mate. I thought it would be that way.
×
×
  • Create New...