Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I noticed today morning when i parked the car, my idle was a bit high - this happened about once or two before but nothing since. On my drive home today from work, everything was fine and then my stagea started to lose acceleration pretty consistently. It happened at no particular RPM range, either on or off boost. She'll be going nicely and then it feels like i just took my foot off the accelerator, but i'm still pressing it! no squealing belts, choking or misfiring.

I'm wondering if AFM could be causing this? but i had it cleaned during my last service at xspeed and haven't really had this issue.

I have a greddy infometer plugged into the OBD port, i noticed the following the AF/C reading is showing 104% - 118% and when the drop happens it goes down to 97%. (a bit high but does anyone know if the greddy infometer 1's displayed this correctly?). I can also see voltages, but i dont know whats normal voltage for a AFM.

Don't think it could be the battery, as it didn't completely shutoff the engine. its an odd one! now i have to figure this out so i can drive to work tommorow.

does anyone have any ideas regarding the above?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363664-weird-issue-with-my-stagea/
Share on other sites

cheers for the reply shetlander, i cleaned out the AFM this morning with some contact cleaner - no protective mesh on the front and back of the AFM though, was your stag's AFM like this? parked the car and the idle was up around 1400RPM while in park. turned the engine off and back on again and it was normal (~650rpm)and didnt repeat.

however drove ok into work this morning no drop outs in acceleration, i monitored the voltages with my greddy infometer:

1.20volts (+/- 0.01v) with A/Cond off

1.31v(+/- 0.01v) with A/Cond on

peak voltage: 3.02v

ranged between 1.4-2.8v during driving.

Does anyone know if these voltages are within operational spec?

Also the infometer showed a diagnostic code of "1", but that doesnt relate to any codes that i know of. This could be a lost leader, as I dont know if the greddy infometer v1 can get the DTC fault codes from the stagea ECU. its currently set to Nissan-non obd, wont connect otherwise.

thanks

Edited by Scratch

Vacuum leak. But because your car isn't running like crap? the air is being metered. The 2 things to check are the Idle Contol Valve, and the Cold Start Valve.

Both of these valves get gummed up with crap over time causing them to stick open and cause high idle.

Search for the DIY tutorial on this forum on how to clean your AAC idle control valve. The cold start valve isn't covered in that tutorial but it would be worth cleaning as well. On the S1 I believe it is located under the intake manifold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, yeah I really like the color. Only paint I'd rather have is KN6, but those are expensive. Right now I'm trying to get the car to the point where I can get it tuned to 370hp so the whole setup can be driven legally, and pass the next inspection that is already due anyway. Beyond that lots of rust fixing I'm afraid, winter project is most likely going to be a front end teardown and fixing the strut tower rust. I know these can be driven daily but I don't think I will do so anytime soon. Will post a build thread soon with a list of issues and futute plans.   Cheers
    • Wanted to reply to this topic. I'm in the somewhat same boat with our Stagea. I'm trying to install a different rear diff. The Stagea/Skyline uses mounts on top of the rear diff for the ATTESA pump. Any way you can relocate the pump? I did find this kit https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34
    • So here's the deal, my wife picked up an S2 AWD Stagea. Super cool, clean car. Looks like the owner in Japan went track spec as it's got some heavy modifications including Exedy twin disk, tension rods, coilovers, GTR brakes, oil cooler & a Nismo 2 way rear diff. Now, cool mods for sure. But, she is just using this as a casual daily driver. The 2 way rear is AGGRESSIVE. It also has solid subframe bushings & poly diff bushings. So that doesn't help either. So far I've tried changing the diff fluid to the correct fluid. Even tried a little friction modifier. No help. This thing clunks, skips the tires & has some slight whine/NVH when driving. Might sound like I'm being picky, but just trying to find a better solution. Here in the states, it's impossible to find a Stagea rear diff. No luck. I do have a 300zx non-turbo diff. Same ratio, 5 bolt axles. On the Stagea, you need both front & rear diff ratios to match. This car is a 4.083. I'd like to just swap a normal rear diff into this thing. Nothing fancy. Even open diff is fine. She's not tracking the car LOL The difference is that the ATTESA pump mounts to the top of the rear diff. There are 3 total mounting points for the pump on top of the diff. With all this being said, what would be the best way to go about this? I could remove the Stagea diff & see if I could get somebody to possibly weld the 3 tabs/mounting points onto the 300zx diff so we could mount the pump on the 300zx diff. I could swap the internals from the 300zx into the Stagea diff but this is not in my comfort zone. Is it possible to mount the ATTESA pump to the underside of the car? Sorry for the paragraph. Just trying to figure out how to go about this. Any help is much appreciated! Stagea Differential - Note two top tabs, one bolt hole for ATTESA pump mounting   300zx Diff - No mounting tabs Also found this mounting kit ?? https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34  
    • Not ready yet, but maybe later in the year?
×
×
  • Create New...