Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Stereo Doesn't Play Sound At All Now.

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hanso Experienced

Hanso

Posted
Posted

My stereo stopped producing sound on my way home from work last night. Checked the fuses, all ok. Amp fuses are good. I don't know what else it could be? No loose wires.

Any ideas? I am in the ACT if anyone knows of someone who can sort this problem.

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

so what did you break adam??

if you have a meter handy check that the earth on the amplifer IS acutally earth. a bad ground will give the same issue where the lights are on but nothing happens.

not sure where you are but if you are around fyshwick pop into BDL and speak to warren. mention me. if you are around belconnen see scott at elite.

Hanso Experienced

Hanso

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so what did you break adam??

if you have a meter handy check that the earth on the amplifer IS acutally earth. a bad ground will give the same issue where the lights are on but nothing happens.

not sure where you are but if you are around fyshwick pop into BDL and speak to warren. mention me. if you are around belconnen see scott at elite.

It hasn't been a problem for the almost two years I've had this install. The light on the amps comes on for a second, then goes out. So power must be getting in there for that second, I just don't know what is the problem.

Every fuse is ok, I can't find any loose wires. I thought that the remote wire from the deck to the amp was loose, but it seemed fine, nothing loose.

Could it be internal to the amps or head unit? Or could the RCAs if not working be the problem? I didn't think though that RCAs conducted current.

I tried calling you before Chris, I'll try again later.

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

It hasn't been a problem for the almost two years I've had this install. The light on the amps comes on for a second, then goes out. So power must be getting in there for that second, I just don't know what is the problem.

The light going on and then going out tends to indicate that the amplifier has detected a problem and has gone into protection mode. You can confirm this by using a multimeter to verify that you are seeing 12V on the battery->ground and headunit-remote->ground connection to verify that the amplifiers are receiving power and that the headunit is continuing to tell the amplifiers to stay on.

To isolate the problem, you need to eliminate variables. First, I would suggest removing all unnecessary wires from the amplifier - disconnect the inputs (RCA from the headunit) and outputs (speakers) - and just leave power/ground/headunit-remote connected. Then turn on the headunit, and see if the amplifiers then stay on.

If this does not solve the problem, and you do get a continuous 12V signal from the headunit, there could be a bigger problem with the amplifiers, or that you have a short between the power/ground/headunit remote wiring (ensure there is no touching).

If the amplifiers are now staying on without any input/output, you now need to start testing - first try hooking up - initially one - of the RCA sources from the headunit and then power the headunit up and see if this causes a problem. Essentially you need to play a game of elimination, working through your RCAs and speaker outputs to determine what is causing the issue.

Good luck with it.

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted (edited)

The light going on and then going out tends to indicate that the amplifier has detected a problem and has gone into protection mode. You can confirm this by using a multimeter to verify that you are seeing 12V on the battery->ground and headunit-remote->ground connection to verify that the amplifiers are receiving power and that the headunit is continuing to tell the amplifiers to stay on.

To isolate the problem, you need to eliminate variables. First, I would suggest removing all unnecessary wires from the amplifier - disconnect the inputs (RCA from the headunit) and outputs (speakers) - and just leave power/ground/headunit-remote connected. Then turn on the headunit, and see if the amplifiers then stay on.

If this does not solve the problem, and you do get a continuous 12V signal from the headunit, there could be a bigger problem with the amplifiers, or that you have a short between the power/ground/headunit remote wiring (ensure there is no touching).

If the amplifiers are now staying on without any input/output, you now need to start testing - first try hooking up - initially one - of the RCA sources from the headunit and then power the headunit up and see if this causes a problem. Essentially you need to play a game of elimination, working through your RCAs and speaker outputs to determine what is causing the issue.

Good luck with it.

yeah try what Jenna said...lol

I've seen wied problems , like a seat bolt used for grounds that got loose when the cat converter got hot. lost ground to the amp.

or a curciut board flexed by the mounting that dead shorts inside the amp if its not flat. without blowing the fuses.

amp type ? location under seat ? boot ? what is hooked up on it ?

also too much current draw on the blue amp wire for turn on can do strange things, if it runs thru a high level rca convertor that can be another problem ?

hook up a mp 3 player to the amp with a rca to headphone wire. low volume, will it play without the radio input ?

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Hanso Experienced

Hanso

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The problem lay with the fuse in the engine bay that the positive power from the battery flows through to the amps. The fuse in it was loose, therefore no power was getting through. Warren at DBL Car Stereo in Fyshwick identified the fault for me, only set me back $20 for a new fuse holder.

Chris, thank you for sending me to see Warren. He was very helpful, and said to say hi to you.

Thank you everyone for your help. It is so good having tunes again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • itsforandres
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By itsforandres · Posted

      @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
    • MR51MN
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MR51MN · Posted

      That's sick, thanks for that, mine has much the same mods on a 400R. I just don't have the heat exchanger yet.   Might be worth a trip down the M1 to Syndey for a tune.
×
×
  • Create New...