Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL i would have some super problems if they were hahahahaha nah one of them is probs leaking i think but there all pritty dry and brittle ... im a bit finiky now that im learning more "2nd year shit kicker" I dont need all the individual lengths just a rough over all ... i thought most vac lines would have roughlhy the same size diamiter ? might have to do some more investigating .... bugger manufacturer ill just find some kool colours and cut it properly

Mate best bet is to pull them all off take them to a hose shop and go i need one of each :)

Yeah thats probs what ill end up doing ..... got mate up road who stoks heaps of that stuff .... was just hopeing that someone might know so i could avoid having to go back and fourth (doing massive service in one day and pre bulking parts lol)

I did all mine on the R33 but the R34 engine is probably bit different. I used mostly generic hoses straight and right angle sections - there is also one 135 degree section. don't forget the water line joins for the turbo feed line at the back of the head (if the R34 has that one). That is normally the first to leak - and the heater hoses and 4-way join at the bottom rear of the block under the intake manifold.

All-in-all....good luck. I'm glad I did all mine at once in the end.

You'll want to use genuine heater hoses (4 of them on the R33). These are intricately shaped and almost impossible to replicate with regular hose without kinking.

Edited by simpletool

When I did my greddy copy plenum I replaced all my vacuum lines with blue turbosmart ones.

Got a pack of 4mm, 5mm and 6mm which was good to replace all the vac lines. They come in black if you want to keep it looking stock

Yeah just from autobarn but there $60 a roll from there and you only get 3m

Try

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=57_452_464&osCsid=68u503ejfk37sfmm2m276p9qd2

I'm pretty sure it was 4mm, 5mm and 6mm but it may have been 3mm instead of 4mm

Yeah the qld section has been a bit dead lately. Haven't heard from many of the guys since they got back from airlie. Think next time we will organize it a bit better lol

I should have gone and scouted some good spots for photos, rookie mistake lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...