Hks 3037 Turbo Kit (3 Weeks Old!)
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So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together. -
Oops my bad, here you go . -
Yeah, so try to post images with extensions that the internet can handle, not HEIC files which only arstyphones can handle.
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I have two questions here, The first is regarding the harness attached to the power window and central locking control on the drivers door. I can't understand why the previous owner would join these wires together on the harness and why they did such a shit job. There was a wire with 10v hanging in the open un insulated. The OEM remote control works just fine The second is regarding the blue, green wire attached to what I believe is the lock actuator? These were running to the old immobiliser connected to the 'UNLOCK - COM' and 'LOCK - COM' wires. I imagine COM means communication and they just send a signal to the immobiliser whether the car is locked/unlocked? IMG_9032.HEIC IMG_9037.HEIC IMG_9038.HEIC IMG_9041.HEIC
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By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
A name I haven't seen in a while, welcome back. Nothing much has changed, we are all still deluded Nissan owners.
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