Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs: Tas - 1978 Datsun Skyline


Recommended Posts

1978 Datsun Skyline C210

Dark redish sedan

L24 6 cylinder

5 speed manual

Twin SU carburettors (off 260z)

Extractors

Lowered suspension

Bonnet pins

14' mags not the ones pictured.

Has had head gasket replaced, and head machined.

Needs carbys tuned to run smoothly, tune was altered when head came off.

no rego, but wouldn't take much to pass.

$2500 or swap

morris1034.jpg

morris1037.jpg

morris1033.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the car but would be too much to bring from tas to sydney but for other people maybe put some interior pics up and note any rust issues.

Good luck, looks / sounds good for the price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the car but would be too much to bring from tas to sydney ...

You could drive it. Cost for a car on the Spirit of Tasmania is $75, add $97 for your ticket and that gets you to Melbourne. Add whatever air fare to Hobart costs plus fuel for the return drive from Melb to Sydney.

JH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could drive it. Cost for a car on the Spirit of Tasmania is $75, add $97 for your ticket and that gets you to Melbourne. Add whatever air fare to Hobart costs plus fuel for the return drive from Melb to Sydney.

JH

No Rego!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah they were supra rims.

been told they might be 240z carbys?

day permits are dirt cheap if someone wanted to drive it back to the mainland.

will put some inside picks up soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are 240z carbies, made in Japan by Hitachi. They have a smaller dome that the "genuine" English-made SU, and are probably easier to live with, too.

yeah they were supra rims.

been told they might be 240z carbys?

day permits are dirt cheap if someone wanted to drive it back to the mainland.

will put some inside picks up soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not as far as I know. Nearly every Z fan running twin carbs is using small-dome 3 or 4 screw Hitachi, not 260z or SU, so in popularity stakes it's all about Hitachi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the english ones are far superior though right?

I run the 240z;s on my red c210...i find them reliable and efficent..

have not tuned them for 4 years,,

and have not had any issues

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I run the 240z;s on my red c210...i find them reliable and efficent..

have not tuned them for 4 years,,

and have not had any issues

want to buy some more? comes attached to a car tho.

open to offers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are these the Dmax ones you are in reference too? https://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35#description Not a bad idea to get the uni flange ones. I have sent just jap an email too. Will see what they say lmao. Only thing is the Dmax ones are on a big back order. Low key anything will be better then my OEM ones I got as they are sounding like popcorn when I go under load lmao 😂☠️🪦.
    • They should do. I have S14 (or something S chassis, anyway) driveshafts in my R32 (because my diff flanges have 3x2). They're the right length. When you go looking for R32/3/4 driveshafts (for turbos), they're all the same thing, so are the same length. So there really shouldn't be any reason why those cheapies from JJ won't also fit an R34. R32/3 NA should also be the same thing. The (3x the price) D-Max ones are uni-fit. They have 5x1 and 3x2 bolt holes and say they cover all the cars. So that would also suggest that they are all the same except for the flanges. And in that case, the flange goes both ways. I'd be buying the D-Max ones if I ever have to replace a shaft. Because that will open up diff options without needing to juggle shafts also. Juggling shafts is gay.
    • Yeah with the adaptors they do look like the photo above - just the fitment within the plenum itself and then further with the rail to the intake is questionable - we shall see tomorrow hopefully once I get some replies from Aeroflow, maybe those bosses are the missing piece....
    • Should be fine, if you have it sitting too far in, you end up just spraying the walls and have shit idle. You "can" run them like that, however I don't think it's a great idea (also depends on your plenum, might be good to just get the injector bosses first, mock it up and see if you need to get the bottom extension) Ideally your injectors, with the extension should look like this  (Not my photos, just Google)
    • Thanks for the replies guys, it's really appreciated.  It seems the kit was supposed to come with those injector bosses but hasn't. Unsure if they'll help as even with the adaptors to make them a 3/4 height injector they still sit too far out so mount the fuel rail?
×
×
  • Create New...