Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry if the pics are too big, these are actual pics of my car, do I have a HICAS?

Now it doesn't look like I have one, comparing it to some pics I found on Google images, ahhh I have no idea.:domokun:

EDIT: Ok, I don't think it has one, can someone confirm?

imag0313n.jpg

imag0311a.jpg

imag0312a.jpg

Edited by Converge
  • Replies 111
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mate, I've been asking around and the best option is to get bilstein shocks and lowered king springs or I think eibach's were mentioned too.

Contact Gary (sydneykid on the forums) and ask him to get this for you, he'll give you some damn good info and the best suspension set up you can get for about the same price as those BC's

its about 1k for the shocks, and 600 for springs or so... not much more than the BC's and you're getting some of the best, BC is considered a "budget" coilover

  On 15/05/2011 at 11:33 AM, Jonno34 said:

mate, I've been asking around and the best option is to get bilstein shocks and lowered king springs or I think eibach's were mentioned too.

Contact Gary (sydneykid on the forums) and ask him to get this for you, he'll give you some damn good info and the best suspension set up you can get for about the same price as those BC's

its about 1k for the shocks, and 600 for springs or so... not much more than the BC's and you're getting some of the best, BC is considered a "budget" coilover

Ah, thanks for that, I'll give him a buzz and see how much it will be :cheers:

Nothing wrong with BC coilovers. I had lowered springs and GT Gas Monroe shocks in my car before i put the coilovers in and IMO the coilovers are 50 thousand times better. My brother in law is about to go from kings springs and pedders shocks in his S13 (previous owner) and put BC coilovers in for several reasons.

One thing that i find more appealing about coilovers is the fact that you have complete control over ride height so if your not happy with where it sits or you have it to low for your driveway you can have it adjusted. With king springs you don't have a choice and like somebody previously mentioned its difficult to get your ride height even on both sides with the springs and shocks. You can also adjust the stiffness of your coilovers but i'm pretty sure you can do that with the shocks as well.

I find coilovers are streetable and i have them in my daily. Soon going to larger sway bars to compliment my setup. If you ever plan to track the car for some fun then coilovers would be the better option in that senario aswell.

Not trying to shoot you down Jonno34 just expressing my thoughs/opinions.

Cheers, and let us know which way you go.

No problems mate :) I was gonna go for BC's myself before talking to Gary, TBH I don't know Sh** and I was just recommending a good option to him before he got the BC's in case he woulda been happier with something else

BC's have gotten tons of good reviews from loads of people, especially for the price they are they seem to be a pretty good deal, but some have said "you get what you pay for" in regards to them, but maybe they havent used em! I have no clue, and I can't talk since im running stock suspension still lol

Just letting you know of another option .. however BC's are 8/6 kg/mm if i remember right .. and Gary would probably be setting the bilsteins/kings around 3.x or 4.x kg/mm

Stock suspension is at 3 kg/mm If i'm not wrong?

Their both good options imo and both have their +ves and -ves and in the end of the day its up to you

Also in regards to lowering, Gary's bilsteins shocks will drop the car by about 24mm from where it is now IF you use stock springs with it as well as stiffening the car up a bit .. so that comes in at about 1000 which is cheaper than BC's too ... thats the way I'm planning on going for now :)

Only problem is my skyline's ride height is about 370mm at front, 380mm at the rear .. (measured from centre of wheel to fender) which is the wrong way around (rear is meant to sit lower than front apparently)

Definitely let us know which way you end up going and how it goes!

Good luck :)

Hey guys,

About the wheels, how would 18 x 9 +20, fit all round?

There are currently some XD9's in stock in Sydney, so I'm considering them :thumbsup:

Would the fit behind the guard a little bit?

This is what I want now, as I noticed if it was flush, going over bumps/driveways would make it rub (depending how low I have it).

I've got 18 x 9 +27 ...

They JUST fit in my guards .. and I don't even know if it will if I lower it at all ...

Don't think the +20 would but im not too sure

I think the guys who checked what offsets would fit my car said around the 30 range would be best?

  On 18/05/2011 at 1:52 PM, Jonno34 said:

I've got 18 x 9 +27 ...

They JUST fit in my guards .. and I don't even know if it will if I lower it at all ...

Don't think the +20 would but im not too sure

I think the guys who checked what offsets would fit my car said around the 30 range would be best?

Hmm, that's confusing then,

Supposedly,

Front 8.5 +32 offset 225 tires

Rear 9.5 +38/35 offset 265 tires

Is a perfect fit for the R34 GT/GT-T

And another set of wheel I was looking at,

[F] 18x8.5 +32

[R] 18x9.5 +38

Says it won't require modification for the R34 GT/GT-T as well

Might go with those, just gonna do a little more research :thumbsup:

Here's an R34 with the offset below,

Front: 18 x 8.5 +37 Rear: 18 x 9.5 +42

http://www.rimtuck.c...jpg&id=1228&h=1

http://www.rimtuck.c...jpg&id=1228&h=2

http://www.rimtuck.c...jpg&id=1228&h=3

So should this should be a good fit :D

[F] 18x8.5 +32

[R] 18x9.5 +38

Edited by Converge

That's interesting ..

Well its up to you, basically the lower the offset the more the wheels stick out of ur guards, most people prefer a more aggressive offset ... imo a +30 would look best ... if ur into the wheels being pretty far in thats cool too though :)

Also, im quite sure that a wider/more aggressive offset on the rears are preferable on a r34 rather than the other way around?

On my car the fronts barely fit the 9 inch wheels with a +27 offset, but the rears hold it easily... that lead to my thinking that if you were to do anything with different offsets, you'd get more aggressive ones on the rear?

Not too sure, see what other people think, theres a post sumwhere where everyones posted their offsets and what fit their car :)

  On 18/05/2011 at 4:08 PM, Jonno34 said:

That's interesting ..

Well its up to you, basically the lower the offset the more the wheels stick out of ur guards, most people prefer a more aggressive offset ... imo a +30 would look best ... if ur into the wheels being pretty far in thats cool too though :)

Also, im quite sure that a wider/more aggressive offset on the rears are preferable on a r34 rather than the other way around?

On my car the fronts barely fit the 9 inch wheels with a +27 offset, but the rears hold it easily... that lead to my thinking that if you were to do anything with different offsets, you'd get more aggressive ones on the rear?

Not too sure, see what other people think, theres a post sumwhere where everyones posted their offsets and what fit their car :)

Ah, 9" at the front may be too wide, most people have recommended me 8.5 with a +30 offset and wider 9.5" for the rear, just not sure on the rear offsets atm.

I think 9 inch in a +30 offset at the front would be more than safe if you want :)

8.5's would be just as good, and have more room too.

If you'd like ill try and get some pics up of my wheels and show u how they fit in my guards?

Yeah you can definitely go with wider wheels or a more aggressive offset on the rears and thats a good look too .. However I bought my wheels in a set of 4 with all the same size/offset so yeah ..

Ill grab pics of the front and rears and how they fit for you to have some ideas later in the day .. (my cars not lowered yet)

I think 9 inch in a +30 offset at the front would be more than safe if you want :)

8.5's would be just as good, and have more room too

if you'd like ill try and get some pics up of my wheels and show u how they fit in my guards?

Yeah you can definitely go with wider wheels or a more aggressive offset on the rears and thats a good look too .. However I bought my wheels in a set of 4 with all the same size/offset so yeah

.ill grab pics of the front and rears and how they fit for you to have some ideas later in the day .. (my cars not lowered yet)

  On 19/05/2011 at 12:54 AM, Jonno34 said:

I think 9 inch in a +30 offset at the front would be more than safe if you want :)

8.5's would be just as good, and have more room too

if you'd like ill try and get some pics up of my wheels and show u how they fit in my guards?

Yeah you can definitely go with wider wheels or a more aggressive offset on the rears and thats a good look too .. However I bought my wheels in a set of 4 with all the same size/offset so yeah

.ill grab pics of the front and rears and how they fit for you to have some ideas later in the day .. (my cars not lowered yet)

That would be awesome if you could do that :thumbsup:

:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have just offended every teenage boy in America
    • Structured text and other high level PLC programing languages are not allowable in Functional Safety. They are very difficult to audit. My PLC stuff is almost exclusively oriented towards Burner Management Systems which are a particularly pernicious form of Safety Instrumented System, when implemented in an SPLC. Even the part of the code written to work in the non-safety logic part of the PLC, like with a Siemens S7-1500 series, still needs to be treated as if it was safety code, with access restrictions, code fingreprints and the like. And Allen Bradley can go EABODs. They ae full of shit. They have this whole lie going on where they say if you use a ControlLogix controller and its IO, and then just duplicate the IOs (ie, run in series or parallel depending on type, to try to make it "fail safe") and "use these programming styles and place these restrictions on what you do" that you can achieve SIL2. What a load of crap. They just get away with it because no-one in the US seems to understand the first thing about Functional Safety and carries on as if all they have to do is buy only SIL2 rated equipment and hey presto, it's a SIL2 system. Idiots. /rant
    • If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
    • It doesn't seem to follow revs. Oddly it seems to follow TPS a little bit from what I can see, but with some delay a bit. IE end of the graph, when he lets off throttle fully, pressure drops a lot, then slowly builds back up, but rpm is on a nice cruisey drop off. I do agree though, it seems very electrically.
×
×
  • Create New...