Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi have a 33 ive had for awhile

things have changed so need to get rid of it

all interior parts

front seats - $150

rear seats - $100

seat belts - $50 each

rear shelf - $30

carpet - $100

dash facia - $40

glove box - $30

centre console - $50

door cards - $40 each

rear plastics - $20 each

a / b / c pillar plastics - $10 each

hood lining - $80

exterior parts

boot - $100

series 1 wing - $50

series 2 wing - $50

m spec side skirts - $100

400r rear pods - $100

tail lights - $50 each

passenger side door

all glass

drivers side gaurd - $100

dash loom - $100

r33 front strut brace - $100

front brakes - $300 with rotors

rear brakes - $200

wipers

fuel tank - $100

brake lines

fuel lines etc etc

engine bay items

rb25det injectors - $80 or $100 on rail

rb25det CAS - $70

rb25 starter - $60

rb25 alternator - $60

rb25 inlet plenum - $100

rb25 turbo manifold - $50

rb25 series 2 engine loom - $150

rb25det 5 speed ecu - $100

rb25 engine cross member - $100

r33 power steering resevior - $40

r33 steering rack - $100

r33 engine fuse box - $40

rb25det series 1 coil packs - $80

rb25det series 2 coil packs - $100

rb25det series 1 coil pack loom no broken clips :) and ignighter - $60

rb25det series 2 coil pack loom no broken clips - $30

rb25det stock cams - $50

WILL ALSO DO THE SHELL AS FRONT OR REAR OR PANEL CUTS ETC ETC

PROBLY OTHER THINGS IVE FORGOTTEN

HIT ME UP FOR ANYTHING UR LOOKING FOR

CAN ALSO TEXT ME ON 0435494669

HAPPY TO MAIL SMALLER ITEMS

IM LOCATED NORTHERN NSW NEAR BYRON BAY

CAN DELIVER ITEMS AS FAR UP AS BRISSY IF WANTED

THANKS

Edited by team carefactor
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364032-wrecking-r33/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hi everyone

yeah i do have series 1 inner gaurds

no drivers side window switch

no manual gear surround

yes i do have AFM

and yes do have both washer bottle motors

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364032-wrecking-r33/#findComment-5813468
Share on other sites

hi everyone

yeah i do have series 1 inner gaurds

no drivers side window switch

no manual gear surround

yes i do have AFM

and yes do have both washer bottle motors

thanks

Price?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364032-wrecking-r33/#findComment-5813536
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • He made that comment in my thread - In my case the vents ARE to lower engine heat, when the car is not moving, which is the only scenario I have heat problems with the aircon on, sitting in traffic, on 40C+ days. I can't imagine a scenario that this NC needs any at this point in time. I do not know if it will actually make my cooling when the car is MOVING worse, and I sincerely hope that won't be the case. If it does, well, um, f**k.
    • Nice, thanks. Thats why I was asking, there'd been a fair bit of discussion in the E90 world about vents and where it makes sense to put one (ie, over the filters is not great as that is inline or slightly behind the struts and in higher pressure area). I struggle with air flow and pressures. It sill weirds me out that a radiator in the boot can work. 
    • Neither really Vents, when located in the right place, will lower the engine bay "pressure", as air has a path to escape, thus lowering the engine bay pressure, thus.....improving the efficiency on the coolant stack (read: IC, condenser, radiator) This is why the Blits vented bonnet on my 33 worked so well, the vent was in the front 1/3 of the bonnet, which put it right after the radiator  If the vents are to far back toward the windscreen, which is a high pressure zone, it can actually force air into the engine bay, causing higher pressure and effectively loosing efficiency on the cooling stack, like the fab of raising the rear of the bonnet, which does allow heat to escape, but only when the car isn't moving  There's heaps of cool "fluid dynamics" info out there, but, I'll attach a video of a 'Merican joint that focuses on "Miatas" as I found it when looking into vents for mine, they explain it way better than me  
    • Poor bleeding. That stupid damping loop in the plumbing that should be completely replaced with a braided hose. Just the first 2 that come to mind.
    • Forgive the potentially silly question but are the vents for bay temps? I've been toying with how to reduce my bay temps because man, it gets HOT in there and a small subtle vent somewhere I think might help. Or, maybe they're to assist with just the intake temps? 
×
×
  • Create New...