Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just trying to work out what the rear housing is on my turbo as i want to replace it with something bigger its only a .63 its a hybrid turbo so these are the numbers on the rear housing

Garrett

m1 63

01404

13016

9526-937

any help would be great if not can i just cork out the wheel size and trim and order a housing to suit??

And you put it on a 3L?

maxx boost @ idle amitright?

haha yea thats why i want to get a bigger rear housing made 450rwkw on an sr20

pretty sure it is a 65mm wheel with a 76 trim wheres the best place to get rear housing to your specs?

haha yea thats why i want to get a bigger rear housing made 450rwkw on an sr20

pretty sure it is a 65mm wheel with a 76 trim wheres the best place to get rear housing to your specs?

Unless it's a Garrett GT series, HKS etcc... you'd find it VERY hard to find replacement housings for such a turbo.

I'm curious as to where you think you'd be able to "order" a rear housing? They're not the sort of thing like springs or pistons, where you can give specs and they'll machine one up for ya...

If it made that much power there's no chance it's a factory turbo, odds are it's one of these t04e knock offs: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/BB/T3T4R_757197_4.htm

There's heaps floating around on the net that copy this design, very popular for no name "eBay" turbos. Search for "T3/T4 turbo" on eBay, see for yourself.

p.s. what's a hybrid turbo?

Unless it's a Garrett GT series, HKS etcc... you'd find it VERY hard to find replacement housings for such a turbo.

I'm curious as to where you think you'd be able to "order" a rear housing? They're not the sort of thing like springs or pistons, where you can give specs and they'll machine one up for ya...

If it made that much power there's no chance it's a factory turbo, odds are it's one of these t04e knock offs: http://www.turbobyga...4R_757197_4.htm

There's heaps floating around on the net that copy this design, very popular for no name "eBay" turbos. Search for "T3/T4 turbo" on eBay, see for yourself.

p.s. what's a hybrid turbo?

plenty of places u can order rear housing for hybrid just means its a bit of everything really it was custom made for the bloke i got it off from a bloke down here its got all sorts off different brand stuff in it i just want to get a bigger rear housing for it

It appears to be some sort of older tech garrett unit, I found some yanks talking about one of the PNs on a US based forum yet stating different trim sizes to your own.

Regardless, if it did 450rwkw on an SR20 theres no way its going to be choking the 3L, simple as that really.

If you want a guaranteed result, your better off buying something else that suits the manifold you already have. If you are yet to make a manifold and were going to make one to suit this turbo, give up while your ahead and start over. The world is your oyster.

As stated, the AR is almost a pointless number to gauge without knowing the turbos specs. To the point that, more 35Rs run .63 rears without issue than 30Rs do and they are actually the same housing on both.

It appears to be some sort of older tech garrett unit, I found some yanks talking about one of the PNs on a US based forum yet stating different trim sizes to your own.

Regardless, if it did 450rwkw on an SR20 theres no way its going to be choking the 3L, simple as that really.

If you want a guaranteed result, your better off buying something else that suits the manifold you already have. If you are yet to make a manifold and were going to make one to suit this turbo, give up while your ahead and start over. The world is your oyster.

As stated, the AR is almost a pointless number to gauge without knowing the turbos specs. To the point that, more 35Rs run .63 rears without issue than 30Rs do and they are actually the same housing on both.

cheers for that mate maybe i will see how it goes yea i alreay have a hks manifold which is t4 flanged so will just got a t3/t4 adaptor or something sorted. can always change later if i want to i guess

Do it once do it right.

The HKS manifold is a good thing but if its a low mount rather than a high mount you will not have space to run an adapter. Its hard to fit a turbo under the low mount manifolds as it is. If it is a highmount of some sort again you may be hitting the bonnet with an adaptor in place... BUT, a highmount is likely to be stainless which you could just chop off the flange and put the flange you want on it.

You need to decide two things, how much power and how much money. 300rwkw you will be wasting your time with a T4 flanged turbo, 400+rwkw you will be spending 20grand in total to get there.

If its 300 you want, sell the HKS manifold and get something suitable.. Probably a stock manifold to be honest. If you DO want over 400rwkw, hang onto what youve got and get the right turbo. If its a twin scroll manifold then pick up a T04Z or 3788R. Recent results for the 3788R have been very impressive.

Lets just say your an odd ball and want 350rwkw, you can actually get a T4 35R from GCG for $1450, I would say that is a good option.. However a member has recently found a twin scroll 3788R to be about as responsive as single scroll 35R (on a very built *read expensive* setup).. Again it all comes down to BUDGET.

GL anyway, this forum has more info than you will ever need... If the info is on another forum another member will find it and put it here :P

gt35 turbine exducer is only 2.5.

Newer GT garrets have the flare up to 3 inch on the outlet but the older T series turbos just had a straight outlet off the turbine, the flare had to be made in the first part of the dump.

GT35 isnt a 450rwkw turbo though, espesially not on an SR20.

Which is what we're getting at.

Yea that's what I thought but I saw the car it was on and that's what it made. And yea aiming for 400kw its a high Mount manifold will just try an adaptor n see how I go hope it doesn't hit on the bonnet with the 26/30 it's gonna be close I reckon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...