Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey mate i remember you, i told you to see matty for tuning as you told me you had problems.

On matty's dyno i made 340rwhwp yet on the weekend the car made 420rwhp with the same set up except blown manifold gasket and has gone almost 121mph with 4psi less boost of what it was tuned on.

I would say it could be your mechanics have either done something to your car or matty isnt tuning it right.

As much as you are sick of spending money, your going to have to spend more as there arent many profesional skyline tuners/ builders here in qld

if you want pm your contact details and il give you a call

harun

with a conversion i would also be looking for all air leaks first...everywhere intercololer pipes vacuum lines everything

check fuel filter

then look at cam timing if adjusted take back to stock then go from there on a dyno.

then check plugs and gap.

set timing to 20 deg adv at 1200rpm

remove exhaust leave just the dump

on the dyno check air fuel ration should be around 12- 12.5 to 1 for a good tune

run something a little better than a t piece but it doesnt have to be electronic just something a bit better..

check regulator pressure make sure it is aroun 35-40psi at idle

the halteck is a map sesor have you totally rewired or bought a plug in harness for it

check your map senso is a 3 bar item

check you are getting wot

some of these are drawing at straws and considering you have made strong power at lower level it leads me to believe there are two problems ignition or fueling....

check coil packs, check regulator and read you ignition maps on higher boost thats what a halteck is good for look at them on the pc...

hope this helps!!

Hey guys, thanks for you're responses. I have a heaps of things that need to be addressed by the sounds of things. Last night i was thinking about just ripping the halteck out and starting again. I will get photo's of the stuff you have asked for as I couldn't find an AR no. I am one of those guys that just say's I want to go fast, how much? fingers crossed they do the right thing.

irs not important as it is still pushing 22psi, which ever way you look at it 22psi is 22psi, only the characteristics of boost delevier and response will be affected by the ar no. on the turbo...

eg... 1.06 on my gtr came in a 5800

.86 comes in a 4800

on the same bosst it stil makes the same figures..

the problem is not the haltech they are fantastic computers, they just need someone that knows about haltechs to work on them.... i recomend you call this bloke

www.justenginemanagement.com

he knows about them more tha anyone he used to make them before starting his own business...

yeh boost controller can have somethingto do with it, not too likely.. but a mate had a turbosmart dualstage and its was just plain shit removed it and was 10 times better.

get a profec b or something similar ive have one and its seriously a good thing and fairly cheap

Guest INASNT
yeh boost controller can have somethingto do with it, not too likely.. but a mate had a turbosmart dualstage and its was just plain shit removed it and was 10 times better.

get a profec b or something similar ive have one and its seriously a good thing and fairly cheap

profec b's r shit with external gate. HKS EVC are the best cause they use a stepper motor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's a fun daydream but personally just looking at OEM implementations of twincharged engines like the recent Volvo engines it makes my head hurt. So, so much complexity compared to even other GDI turbo inline 4s. 
    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
×
×
  • Create New...