Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the topic states im after a rear bar, either Dayz (prefer S2) or RS260 but will look at any other aftermarket bars people have sitting around.

the standard bar cuts away too much from the bodyline at the rear and its killing me inside haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364125-wtb-c34-rear-bar/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

yeh black mate. dont give 2 shits about the colour anymore due to 15 mins after bumping this thread my colourbond gate was blown open into the back of the stagea and scuffed the hell and fractured the paint. if i cant find a decent bar il just save and buy a full masa or dolphin copy kit

yeh i was kinda looking at the viva garage MS (masa) kit. doesnt look too bad. they shit or something? theres another mob called BLITS and they do a dolphin copy thats the same as the rear and skirts TJ is selling but the whole kit is cheaper than his rear bar and skirts. if he had the front bar to match i would be much more interested. also i prefer the masa kit over the dophin. i would REALLY like a 260RS rear bar, that would be my first pick.

I'm curious to this too, as I was looking at getting the Viva Garage gear somewhere down the track. I'm happy if it "kinda" fits as I'm sure I'll break it within a year pinch.gif

Edited by Run-It-Hard

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/279367-front-bar-verdict/page__p__4718787__hl__masa+kit__fromsearch__1#entry4718787

Looks like the BLITS is the go over Viva, which is a shame cause I prefer the chunkyness of the Masa style over doplhin (and doplin's front bar doesn't look too good on an S1 imo).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given it is temporary, I bought a  cheapy gauge mount (which has become enflattened) which I will screw into the existing phone mount Also a first for me; given this is a temporary install I could not think of any reason not to use one of those "add a fuse" thingies to source the battery and IGN power. I had always figured they were pretty dodgy but having a good look at them I think they are a valid option for sourcing power from an existing source without cutting 
    • Finally for now, a bit more work on the transmission temp gauge. I was wondering how Raceworks do a gauge for $100 that autometer want $500 for. No idea about the accuracy of course, but they have cut a few corners that made things hard.  First one I mentioned above, the sender is physically difficult to fit and doesn't work with their own adapters (the extra fittings I used to get the sender into a hose cost more than the whole gauge, lucky I had stuff in the shed) Second, the temp sender wires are way too short. They are shown as 2.7m on the box and I know my routing was long from navigator headlight to driver's firewall back to centre console, but I had to lengthen them by about 2m total - 2 joins in each wire. Also, same with the supplied power loom, they needed about an extra 1m to get the fuse box where I sourced power. Another join in each wire since one end wasn't supplied terminated. I know they could argue that the wires might be long enough depending on situation, but when you consider parts and particularly labour, it would be a very expensive cheap gauge if you can't do the work yourself. And, only a small issue....but it would have been nice if they remembered to tap a tread onto *both* spacers they supplied for the bracket....I haven't had to use the M4 tap often!
    • If it does get a turbo it would blow the JCW Mini out of the water considering how "close" some of the tests were. Then again the Mini would probably get one of them Stage 69 tunes.
    • Next up, the extinguisher is mounted but really only temporary because I ran into clearance problems (the bracket fit fine....until I put an extinguisher on it). It picks up the seat bolt mounts but has long bolts running through 20mm spacers for now Doing it properly requires a bit of quick welding but I ran out of time, this will do for the practice day  
    • Family events weekend but a snuck a couple of things in. NSW state champs were down at Wakefield so I got Gordon Leven's to bring some A052s down in the right size for some spare rims I had that "fit" (actually ex-Leaf Nismo.Rays in 18x7.5). Tyres are 235/45/18 so they are narrower than stock (19x8.5s) but I need to keep road tyres on it for daily use for now. In a first, those weird size tyres had been in the yoko warehouse for so long (4.5 years apparently) that they offered 4 for the price of 2....so 4 practice tyres for about $1100. Bit of a bargain for sticker tyres, considering the real purpose of the practice day is mostly to see how the various temps go (and the weather is due to help, forecast 32o). In terms of race wheels, it looks like I should be able to fit 9.5 fronts and 10.5 rears but 18 vs 19 height will be based on what tyres I can get in the right size - good tyres are very limited in available widths in diameters above 17" so some planning is needed. Once I'm sure this car will work I'll order a set of custom BC wheels like I did for the R32, you can get exactly the right width and offset to make the most of the available space in the wheel well (the 32 has 295s all round on 18x10s and they are awesome) Incidentally A052 are asymmetrical but not directional which is good news for rally use if the front and rear wheel sizes are different because I can swap them side to side on the same axle. Directional tyres are a nightmare with staggered size wheels because each tyre is fixed on that corner unless you can get it rotated on the rim (not really practical mid rally in most cases)
×
×
  • Create New...