Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this with their 26s...

I recently installed one of the over cam cover, barrel style oil/air separators on my 32 GTR, was previously running the factory lines without issue.

Has been running the can now for about a week, got home last night after giving it a bit of stick (revved it to 7200 a few times max) and noticed oil on the driveway, popped bonnet and noticed the dipstick had popped out and allowed oil to blow on the drivers side inner guard...

Now, ive had motors in the past with busted pistons and broken ringlands and know that this can be an indicator that all is not well but i'm 100% sure that the motor is healthy, its a forged build and only running 11psi with knock reading no higher than 30 on average...

I run it about 500ml over filled with oil...

Im convinced this can is causing a restriction and creating excess crankcase pressure causing it to look for other ways out ie. via the dipstick tube...

Has anyone else had this issue with this style of separator?

Pic of install, any issues anyone can see???

atqm3o.jpg

2drzc7d.jpg

Edited by NSNPWR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364214-oilair-separator-install-on-rb26/
Share on other sites

Ive got one runningperfectly fine.

Its got a pipe between the 2 hoses inside the cylinder/can. In that pipe there is a small slit venting into the can.

Try putting electrical tape around the dipstick so its a tighter fit. If that doesnt work try running the car without it and see if it still pops the dipstick out.

Cool, this is the same, small slit in the tube running through the guts of the can...I was running nothing previously and the dipstick never popped out, ever...

Does the install look correct? Ive seen one where someone had looped the 2 side breathers around the back so they connected up but doing this this wouldnt really provide any extra ventilation as such?

And I blew threw the can easy as before I fitted it so pretty sure theres no restriction in the can itself, my only concern with the install is the 90 degree elbow on the drivers side line from the PCV, not ideal.

I have the same setup on mine, just make sure all the hoses are still flowing easily, and the 90degree hose isnt kinking on the inside, also remove the pcv and clean it out with some throttlebody/carby cleaner, the valve may be sticking....good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
×
×
  • Create New...