Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 18/05/2011 at 9:34 PM, R34 Sedan said:

Yeah good point, at least I have a very good panel beater who I trust implicitly. The first accident was a 20K repair job, half the car had to be resprayed, so I paid for the other half out of my pocket and had a total respray, and the paint job shit's all over anything out of the Nissan factory. The cars now 13 years old, and looks better than most cars that are 12 months old. I had a spray painter look at it (my mechanic is also a qualified spray painter) and he could NOT tell it's been in an accident at all.

Not to mention I spent a small fortune modifying it, sway bars, Tein Coil overs, and a bunch of engine mods, it now put's out 360rwHP.

So in short I do love the car and don't really want to sell it (I'm just sick of waiting for import parts).

I've been told the parts will be here in 2 weeks, so hopefully with a bit of luck it might be repaired in a month or so, here's hoping anyway.

Paul

As a rule of thumb, panels are usually too "fluffy" to air freight in that there volume when packaged is greater than their weight so they usually come in containerised... out of japan you are looking at at least 20 days in transit minimum before you start talking about local handling either side or a slower service.

Sucks ey?

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  On 18/05/2011 at 10:22 AM, cpd said:

+1

As a 6'4 guy in an R33 GTST, stock seats have my head on the roof; 32GTR seats in my car now leaves me a few inches lower :D

A couple of questions regarding seats and rails:

1. Can I just fit a set of GTR rails and mount my existing seats on them, obviously I'd need a reduction in height?

2. Can I fit R33GTR rails and seats in my R34 GTT

The reason I ask this is the R34 GTR seats are just to hard for me and my back injury.

If I ever want to take the car on the track I need to lower the seat because there is no way I could wear a helmet the way it is.

Paul

Very little you can do to prevent people running in to you, except maybe opt for a colour other than red (apparently the similarity between the brake lights and the colour of the car could mean a split second delay in the synapses of whoever is following you, which could make all the difference.

Anyway, if you don't want an import, how about ...

350z-4.jpg

They were Aussie delivered of course, but parts would still need to come overseas from Japan. Even so supply would probably be better than a BMW and slightly cheaper to run than say a 330Ci or M3.

Matt

  On 19/05/2011 at 6:28 AM, R34 Sedan said:

A couple of questions regarding seats and rails:

1. Can I just fit a set of GTR rails and mount my existing seats on them, obviously I'd need a reduction in height?

2. Can I fit R33GTR rails and seats in my R34 GTT

The reason I ask this is the R34 GTR seats are just to hard for me and my back injury.

If I ever want to take the car on the track I need to lower the seat because there is no way I could wear a helmet the way it is.

Paul

Not too sure; I think R34 GTT rails were different to the rest? Anyone else wanna help me out here?

The seats themselves are the main difference in height, they're a lot smaller in the base than the massive pillow of GTST seats. Having said that though, they are a little harder, so I don't know how you'd go with your back injury, but the majority of "hard ride" in my car is due to coilovers, so that'd come back to your suspension.

If they're the same rails though, if you're at an event I've got the liner at, I'm happy to do a quick in/out for you to see how the 32 seats sit in your car... Just need confirmation it fits heh

  On 19/05/2011 at 7:12 AM, cpd said:

Not too sure; I think R34 GTT rails were different to the rest? Anyone else wanna help me out here?

The seats themselves are the main difference in height, they're a lot smaller in the base than the massive pillow of GTST seats. Having said that though, they are a little harder, so I don't know how you'd go with your back injury, but the majority of "hard ride" in my car is due to coilovers, so that'd come back to your suspension.

If they're the same rails though, if you're at an event I've got the liner at, I'm happy to do a quick in/out for you to see how the 32 seats sit in your car... Just need confirmation it fits heh

Yeah that's it really just need to know if they fit.

I have Tein Street coil overs which are a little firm but there really not to bad, I think their about the softest coil overs you can get.

I think I'd be fine with R33 GTR seats, although I really don't think I'd want the R34GTR seats, their quyite hard.

R34 GTT seat mounting points are different to 32 33 and 34 GTRs, there is a thread here somewhere about it, you need to cut and weld the rails for it to fit.

Or just do as some people do and only run 2 or 3 bolts, PLEASE DONT.

Also my back is arse and the 34 GTR seats are fine.

  On 19/05/2011 at 7:12 AM, cpd said:

Not too sure; I think R34 GTT rails were different to the rest? Anyone else wanna help me out here?

I'm pretty sure that's right - for some reason the R34 GTt seats are NOT compatible with R34 GT-R or any of the R32s, R33s or C34 Stageas

  On 19/05/2011 at 7:38 AM, GoldZilla said:

I'm pretty sure that's right - for some reason the R34 GTt seats are NOT compatible with R34 GT-R or any of the R32s, R33s or C34 Stageas

Yeah that's a right pain in the arse, if they need to be welded, and you do it properly, you'l need an engineers certificate and the thing will probably have to be over engineered to the bullshit, and cost a small fortune.

  On 19/05/2011 at 7:58 AM, R34 Sedan said:

Yeah that's a right pain in the arse, if they need to be welded, and you do it properly, you'l need an engineers certificate and the thing will probably have to be over engineered to the bullshit, and cost a small fortune.

Might need to look at a Bride Low max (i think?) recliner or something similar?

  On 19/05/2011 at 12:49 PM, Aphex said:

Might need to look at a Bride Low max (i think?) recliner or something similar?

When you talk about Bride low max, are you talking about just seat rails, or the seats and the rails.

Thanks Paul

  On 19/05/2011 at 7:20 AM, R34 Sedan said:

I have Tein Street coil overs which are a little firm but there really not to bad, I think their about the softest coil overs you can get.

Have you thought about just getting some springs and shocks (EG, the old sydneykid suspension kit that used bilstein shocks with a different manufacturer of springs). Chances are you will get a better ride without compromising handling (especially since Tein Streets aren't a monotube shock)

  On 19/05/2011 at 11:43 PM, Cassbo said:

Have you thought about just getting some springs and shocks (EG, the old sydneykid suspension kit that used bilstein shocks with a different manufacturer of springs). Chances are you will get a better ride without compromising handling (especially since Tein Streets aren't a monotube shock)

To be perfectly honest I've been very happy with the Tein Street coil overs (I've had them on the car a few years now), the ride is quite comftable, and they've improved the handling out of sight.

  On 22/05/2011 at 2:36 AM, jetblack said:

Parts are not that hard to find for imports, you must be going through the wrong sources.

$20k damage? why did u even fix it, im sure that would be a write off!

anyway id go for a e36 m3 evo, 330ci or 350z maybe even an HSV GTO

No I guess this accident is probably about 8K damage. The 20K accident was a few years ago when the car was insured for over 30K, and it bent the rear chassis rail, (it's now insured for 23.5K). After that accident the panel beater did a fantatstic repair, he resprayed the entire car (partly at my expense) and you couldn't tell it had been in an accident at all. My mechanic's also a spray painter and he couldn't pick it.

Your right parts aren't that difficult to get, my panel beater and I insist on using brand new genuine parts. That being the case he's ordered the parts through a Nissan dealer. I believe it's taking so long because they've been affected by the recent earthquake. In the past it's usually taken about 2 weeks.

Their due here next week, so here's hoping, although I'm not holding my breath.

Yeah the M3, EVO, and 350Z would all be nice cars that I'd be happy to drive, although I spent quite a lot modifying the R34 so I think I'm going to keep it.

Paul

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...