Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive done 140,000km in my stagea in the 4 years ive owned it and its never missed a beat, fair enough ive replaced some of the wear and tear items but thats the same as any car. But there hasnt been much that i have done to it in 4 years

This is what ive done

Cleaned injectors

Replaced coil packs

Replaced rear hicas sensor

Brake disks machined

Replaced front and back brake pads

Radiator cleaned

3 sets of plugs

2 sets of tyres

castor arm bushes

rear outer ball hicas joints

one front control arm

2 front sway bar d bushes and links

obviously repalced the oil every 5,000km and cleaned K and N filter when needed

Replaced the front shocks cause they were stuffed when i bought the car

one front headlight globe

changed the timing belt at 100,000

changed the gearbox and diffs oils once

All wear and tear items but i think thats pretty good in 4 years and 140,000km also being 13 years old

car now has 177,000km on the clock, interesting to see the next 100,000 and what wears out in that time and that will be the true test.

I feel really sorry for all you guys who have had limitless problems with there stageas because they are a really good car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364290-140000km-down-and-no-dramas-at-all/
Share on other sites

Sorry but I don't consider that to be no problems at all, it's a Nissan so it will always have problems aka manufacturing errors. Nissan = teh poo

Edited by lilcrash

Sorry but I don't consider that to be no problems at all, it's a Nissan so it will always have problems aka manufacturing errors. Nissan = teh poo

Its all been wear and tear items so i think thats its been good, why bag nissans when you own one. if you dont like it get rid of it.

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry but I don't consider that to be no problems at all, it's a Nissan so it will always have problems aka manufacturing errors. Nissan = teh poo

are you on crack? any mechanic ive ever worked with will say if you want a reliable car buy a nissan or a toyota. cheap parts and easy to work on. how can you call something that happens 13years down the track a manufacturing error? no car ever will take 13yrs of abuse and never need a part replacing.

now my origninal question to sturb25, are that front swaybar links stagea specific or R33GTR items? ive searched high and low and all the pics ive seen of aftermarket R33GTR links look too short in comparison to the stagea

mines up to 185000kms and ive done less replacement parts than that. splitfire coils, front cam seals and a timing belt. plus the regular service parts. but i have upgraded alot of stuff (it didnt need to be replaced though) brakes, shocks and springs, swaybars, wheels.

mine says 110,000kms on the clock but i believe it to have been wound back (100,000km jap service sticker on the airbox and that was at 64,000 on the clock at purchase)

all i have done is regular servicing and bigger exhaust - oh and cheap mags

absolutely noting else!

the mrs drives it day in and out and runs like a dream.

dont get me wrong i do give it a run every now and then and still goes like stink! but 99% of the time it never goes above 5000rpm, a bit of lifter noise after an oil change but it goes away before long.

the headlights are fading and the front drivers shocker has a small oil leak but big whoop, unless i track it i aint gonna worry.

perfect car otherwise

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...