Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Always garaged and serviced only by Unigroup Engineering. Has only ever had BP Ultimate for a drink and Motul oils in the 3 years I've had it (first Australian owner). Makes about 195rwkw on 11 PSI. Stock engine internals incl. turbo but was tuned by Toshi using stock ecu and daughterboard.

ENGINE:

- Stock engine / turbo with genuine 89,000 Kms.

- New NISSAN Timing belt and NSK timing / tensioner bearings and Nissan water pump changed a few months ago by Unigroup

- 40mm dual core aluminium radiator

- new fan clutch

- Splitfire Coilpacks

- stock airbox with high performance filter

- brand new battery purchased 2 months ago

INTERIOR:

- all seats reupholstered with creme coloured leatherette with NISMO embroidery. Centre console and door inserts matching.

- grey factory carpets removed and replaced with jet black carpets throughout

- genuine NISMO mats front & back

- all upholstering work done professionally

- RaceTech gauges (blue leds) replacing the old factory ones for Voltage, Boost (PSI) and Water Temperature

- GTR dash insert (charcoal)

- dash cluster lights replaced with blue LEDs (matching the stereo and triple-gauges)

AUDIO

- front speakers and tweeters installed by FHRX studios

- Dynamat in front doors

- Active ported sub in the boot (120Watts from memory) strappped down securely and can be removed easily to free up space.

- Kenwood CD headunit with USB input

EXTERIOR

- NISMO rear bar (not to be confused with the common Nissan Altia bar)

- IMPUL side skirts

- factory front bar for practicality

- 20% tinting all around

- LED tail lights (custom design)

- LED boot lid lights

- genuine XENON Hid lights (factory option) 3-way adjustable and HID parkers + NISMO eyelids

- genuine NISMO front and side blinkers (charcoal/smoked)

WHEELS AND BRAKES

- 18 x 8.5" DTM wheels (charcoal with polished lip)

- Maxxis flagship directional performance tyres - plenty of meat left

- RDA slotted rotors

- QFM HPX brake pads

- wheels have some typical gutter rash (quoted $200 to fix)

SUSPENSION

- Bilstein (german made) suspension installed by HEASMANS with circlip grooves for height adjustability

- Whiteline heavy duty sway bars

- Whiteline springs (firm enough to provide good handling but not over the top)

- new bump stops and all new bushes (Whiteline)

- 4 wheel alignment done for performance handling

EXHAUST

- free flowing turbo-back system incl.

- JustJap dump pipe

- highflow cat

- HKS Silent Power Cat-Back 3.5" sys

Price is $18,000 ONO.

No low ballers please and NO SWAPS. Plates come with the car (DR34PR aka "The Reaper") and cost $90 a year (RTA) or you can swap them for standard plates. Located in FIVE DOCK NSW (near M4 exit onto Paramatta Rd). Got the cash / finance approval ? Call me 0413 337 146. No test pilots - no one gets in the driver seat without a $1,000 security deposit and signed waiver.

post-49910-0-39492100-1305442598_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-26764900-1305442768_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-82730300-1305442779_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-36459500-1305442883_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-58969000-1305442896_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-62617100-1305442689_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-00723100-1305442716_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-17950000-1305442743_thumb.jpg

post-49910-0-41652600-1305442659_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364331-syd-r34-gtt-black-manual/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc.  I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...  
    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...