Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I'm putting out 600hp in my gtr through n os giken 5 speed, cruise on the freeway every morning and afternoon for work n I don't have a single problem with the ratios if the box.

I don't see any point to this at all other than that fact u can brag to your mates that u have a 6 speed box thinking that it's something exotic n rare. From what uve said it's just pure wank factor. I doubt u would notice any difference when driving

That is my observation of what u want

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I won't deny that 3/4 of wheels, body kits n paint is a wank factor, but those are only cosmetic things, not mechanical. U do mechanical things on a needs basis not just coz it's "cool"

This is a very costly excerise with little to no gain.

Getrag gtr box. Roughly $4500-5000 last time I checked

Then ull need the r34 gtr rear diff to suit the boxes ratios

Remove transfer case

Make custom adaptors

Make custom tail shaft

New clutch to suit larger input shaft of the getrag

I'd pull the box down n check everything is 100%

Labour costs

New parts if things arnt 100%

Add all this up and it quickly becomes not worth it at all.

I won't deny that 3/4 of wheels, body kits n paint is a wank factor, but those are only cosmetic things, not mechanical. U do mechanical things on a needs basis not just coz it's "cool"

This is a very costly excerise with little to no gain.

Getrag gtr box. Roughly $4500-5000 last time I checked

Then ull need the r34 gtr rear diff to suit the boxes ratios

Remove transfer case

Make custom adaptors

Make custom tail shaft

New clutch to suit larger input shaft of the getrag

I'd pull the box down n check everything is 100%

Labour costs

New parts if things arnt 100%

Add all this up and it quickly becomes not worth it at all.

Strongly disagree with people doing mechanical things on a needs basis. I didnt put a full zorst on my car because it needed it- rather i like the sound and power increase. And thats without talking about all the useless shiny engine compartment parts that people spend there money on.. but last time i checked its up to the owner of the car how much money they spend and what on, after all isnt it all about the driver of the car being satisfied ?

Dont get me wrong, i wouldnt spend 5 plus grand on a 6 speed box myself, nor would i spend 10 plus grand on a f**king paint job- but its not my money, and if its worth it to him then who cares?

Define worth? Making a $7,000 bad choice is something i don't like seeing any user do - and that's exactly what it is.

Stock ratios i can get 650-700km to a tank on the freeway - cruising @ 130km/h too mind you which is around 3300rpm IIRC.

Sounds like it might be an economy choice or something.

A Supra Getrag is still just as expensive as a GTR Getrag simply because anyone wanting to convert their Auto to a 6-speed needs the box - So they are potentially more expensive. It'll be around 6-7k adventure just for the extgra gear, that offers no performance benefit either.

Lot of cost just for a want. If going 6-speed was a good idea, everyone would have done it.

I mean full credit to him for persisting with an idea. It's just hard to fathom as to the reason you'd spend that money when the gearbox is worth more than the car.

Define worth? Making a $7,000 bad choice is something i don't like seeing any user do - and that's exactly what it is.

Stock ratios i can get 650-700km to a tank on the freeway - cruising @ 130km/h too mind you which is around 3300rpm IIRC.

Sounds like it might be an economy choice or something.

A Supra Getrag is still just as expensive as a GTR Getrag simply because anyone wanting to convert their Auto to a 6-speed needs the box - So they are potentially more expensive. It'll be around 6-7k adventure just for the extgra gear, that offers no performance benefit either.

Lot of cost just for a want. If going 6-speed was a good idea, everyone would have done it.

I mean full credit to him for persisting with an idea. It's just hard to fathom as to the reason you'd spend that money when the gearbox is worth more than the car.

mate when i have completed the engine and everything else, i would LIKE to put a 6 speed in, just something i want to do, and i dont no if someone has changed my diff ratios but cruising at 130km/h im doing aqbout 3900rpm - 4000rpm , at about 100km/h im doing 3400rpm

and how could it all cost 7k theres 6 speed boxes out there for 1.5k - 2.5k , my mate can mill me an adapter plate (he just finished my plenum)

so thats free (maybe a six pack) driveshaft ? im not sure maybe $100 - $200

fitting $0 just an hour or two with my mate , and a jack,lift, thing

new uni's, if that, couple hundred

total cost max 3k and an arvo of playing around fitting it,

wow dont know where u been looking for boxes, can u provide a link to these cheap boxes? all the ones ive seen on here have been $4500+ considering its about $8000 brand new

import monster has some for $4500 delivered

new twin plate clutches go for anywhere betwwen $1500 for a cheap one up to $2500 for nismo copermix

u want to race so a new diff is required say about $1800- 2200 for a 1.5/ 2 way

drive shaft will be more than your quoted 1-200

will need to be ballanced also

oils, theres another $200 or more for diff and box

so far ive added up ull be over $8000.

have u driven a six speed before and did it live up to everything that u say it will?

do u have a hoist also? gear boxes are heavy n i wouldnt attempt to install one only on jacks.

you honestly have to weigh up if its worth it? u may do all the work n find out its not all u make it out to be.

listen to the people on here, they have tones of experience and have learnt lessons from others, all we are trying to do is let u know that its not worth the effort

and how could it all cost 7k theres 6 speed boxes out there for 1.5k - 2.5k , my mate can mill me an adapter plate (he just finished my plenum)

so thats free (maybe a six pack) driveshaft ? im not sure maybe $100 - $200

fitting $0 just an hour or two with my mate , and a jack,lift, thing

new uni's, if that, couple hundred

total cost max 3k and an arvo of playing around fitting it,

Where are you getting a Getrag for 1.5k?

They are $4500 minimum. Fact.

If you are looking to 'adapt' a 6-speed out of some other car like a S15 or something, you should stop that idea right now as you are going backwards. They are not as strong. There are other factors you've not thought of like speedo calibration/signal/ECU, gearbox mouting, possibly tunnel changes, 100% custom driveshaft will be a LOT more than 200, clutch to suit it all etc etc.

It's not as simple as you are making out dude, nor it is cheap. :/

Anyway you don't really seem to have a good idea of whats involved so I'm out of this thread. Good luck with a 6-speed conversion.

i looked around on this topic when I first seen it for shitsngiggles and found a thread from America.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/tremec-tranny-for-rb-t448047-40.html

Basically guy was all set to make a Tremec T56 speed adapter kit ( I beleive if you were going to do this the Tremec T56 box would be your best option as its strong and readily available pretty cheap, about 1500-2000 as you said ), he had it all drawn up and was getting prices, all he needed was enough people in a group buy to make it happen..

It didnt happen!!

So I think you should do it, then report back here and tell us all how good it is..

yeah at first I was with the haters as well, I thought its a pointless and fruitless excercise, I still do. i mean what is really to be gained from this,

A bit more top end speed? maybe but how fast are you driving

fuel economy? Well only on the highway maybe, put with the cost of the conversion its self defeating

But if I wanted to see someone spend/waste money on a car I would rather see someone do this than spend/waste 5000$ trying to fit an ugly as aids veilside bodykit

Tremec T56 are a decent box at roughly the same price s/h as a r33 5 speed, if there was a conversion kit for lets say under 1000$, im sure many people would consider it as well. But without a ready made conversion its alot of work and not for the fainthearted or those without engineering skills or a fat wallet

But Ash is right this guy has no clue whatsoever so I was just daring him to do it cause I know he wont :D

Strongly disagree with people doing mechanical things on a needs basis. I didnt put a full zorst on my car because it needed it- rather i like the sound and power increase. And thats without talking about all the useless shiny engine compartment parts that people spend there money on.. but last time i checked its up to the owner of the car how much money they spend and what on, after all isnt it all about the driver of the car being satisfied ?

Dont get me wrong, i wouldnt spend 5 plus grand on a 6 speed box myself, nor would i spend 10 plus grand on a f**king paint job- but its not my money, and if its worth it to him then who cares?

thank you some one get its, i wouldnt spend 5k plus on this conversion, i didnt no the cost,

that why i asked for info,

cheers

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Gearboxes/auction-377193620.htm

you realise you will have to find a stupid high diff ratio . something close to 3.5 . as 5th is 1:1 not 4th like a normal box . giving you 4 under drive gears

same as when you put a 2jz and r161 box in a silvia 1st gear becomes useless unless you g

get a tremac t56 .

not sure about the other boxes but T56 still has 1:1 in fourth, 5th is overdrive, 6th is warp speed :D

Only the Commodore and Dodge Vipers had those silly ratios.

There are about 12 million ratio combos avaliable for the clunky old T56

Yeah all 1:1 forth like most gearboxes, but 6th in the VT-VX commodores was 0.5:1 yup double over driven.

Would be absolutley useless in a skyline, if 400rwkw supercharged V8s cant accelerate in 6th with a 4.11:1 diff, than a 2.5L six has no hope

This is one of my pet hates on SAU.

Some one makes a thread for other peoples opinions because they have very little knowledge on the subject (completely fair, that's the purpose). However when the people with the experience and knowledge tell that person it is a bad idea and will cost $10,000 the OP starts getting cocky and having a go at people.

I don't get it.

Why make the thread then?

I'm not trying to give you shit. I just don't get it. Obviously you had no idea on the subject so why not take peoples advice straight away?

Also people comparing some one spending money on wheels/kit/etc. as been in the same boat as this gearbox conversion doesn't get the point and it is nowhere near the same.

Also to this:

and i was thinking twin high flowed rb26 turbo setup

550 cc injectors, tomie poncams, cam gears,

anyone think of anything to build an awesome engine

Im building an rb30/25 (about 40 percent done, engine runs pretty good but gutless still stock n/a ,atm, now its time for the mods.

This to me sounds like you once again have very little information. You do know that the RB26 turbo setup won't bolt straight up onto a RB25 head? If you wanted to do that you should have just started with the RB26 head. Would have been a lot easier.

And as others have said. Start this with a GTST. All people that start these projects with a GTS end up regretting it because it ends up costing more than if they had started with a GTST and the GTST has a lot of extras in it over the GTS.

Also how do you build an engine when you don't actually know what the setup for it will be? What CR have you built it to? And how is it 40% done, but running and being N/A? Is it in the car running but you have bolted all the NA gear onto it for the time being?

Just my 2C.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a way to adjust all of the pedals in an R32 GTS-T? they all sit even, but seem to be a little high for my liking.
    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
×
×
  • Create New...