Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20/r32 Gtst Engine Gremlins

ShinySilverDragon
 Share

Recommended Posts

ShinySilverDragon Enthusiast

ShinySilverDragon

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I'm really hoping someone can give me some info/guidance on some problems I'm having with my baby.

The car is a R32 GTST - RB20 stock engine. I bought it about 18months ago; it has approx 220,000 km on her. Major 200k service was completed by previous owner (according to him)

Problem 1 (first started occurring 2-3 weeks ago):

The car will start up normally, and will run normally at first. Then once it gets warm, after 40min to an hour of driving, it will start to sound like it has dropped a cylinder. It will develop a "put put" sound from the exhaust, start to backfire badly after acceleration, and would generally feel like it had no power. The car will not idle smoothly, and the idle will drop quite low (400-600 RPM). It will still get some boost, but it won't start to kick in until around 4k RPM. There is also a strong smell of fuel inside the car (with the windows up and no a/c or fans on), as well as outside the car.

The problem started out being fairly sporadic, but then became more regular (as in would occur within 30-40 min of starting the car on my drive to and from work)

Once the problem starts, it won't go away until the car is not running for a significant period (like overnight).

*First thought is to a leaky injector o-ring, and some fuel can be seen in the area around the injector. But have not removed it yet as am waiting on parts.

Problem 2 (started approx 1 week ago):

The car will start normally, and will idle normally. Then when trying to pull away in first, the car will seem normal until 2k RPM. Then it will bog down, and plateau at 2k, and will take 20 30 seconds to get to 3k RPM. The boost gauge on the dash (which is not in PSI) will read to -7, until RPM reaches 3K, and then it will come back to 0, and then start to boost up to +4 at 4.5K RPM (which is much later than normal). The same will happen in second gear, but not in any of the others.

It is hard to say if this issue occurs after a certain amount of time, or in certain conditions. It has happened straight away from starting the car, and it has also happened after the car has been running for a while.

I have had this problem go away while driving once.

So fingers crossed you guys can help! Thanks in advance, and if there is anything I can be more specific about just let me know :)

- Sheri

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364417-rb20r32-gtst-engine-gremlins/
Share on other sites
cannabiscorpse Mentor

cannabiscorpse

Posted
Posted (edited)

Its seems they would have been done at 200k according to his post (by the previous owner) But that is purely taking the previous owners word for it.

Edit- Do Rb 20's suffer from the same shitty coil packs the Rb25s do? My 25 behaved similar in some instances when the coils were rat shit.

Edited by cannabiscorpse
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

First diagnose everything and see where you come up.

Check compression, fuel pressure, resistance across the usual sensors and diagnostic error codes.

Start with the basics, the factory service manual (FSM) can tell you all this.

Once you have checked that everything is running as it should.. Then you can start wondering what gremlins you may have.

ShinySilverDragon Enthusiast

ShinySilverDragon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the responses guys :)

I changed the spark plugs about a year ago (3-4 months after buying the car)

but have not yet checked the coil packs, so will put that on the to do list.

Thanks for the help so far, will update with any findings as I go :)

ShinySilverDragon Enthusiast

ShinySilverDragon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok car just died at a set of lights in peak hour traffic! So frustrating! And what is with no one stopping to help or even asking if I'm ok! And no tow trucks are available!!!! \end rant

Will be looking at it tomorrow, will be checking coil packs, sparks, leads, battery, starter everything! (was going to be looking at it anyway which makes it even more annoying)

ShinySilverDragon Enthusiast

ShinySilverDragon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So car still isn't starting today :(

Coil packs are fine, all 6 plugs are sparking though spark seems weak...

Fuel is definitely going into the fuel rail, so all the ingredients are there for it to start, but it still isn't.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

So car still isn't starting today :(

Coil packs are fine, all 6 plugs are sparking though spark seems weak...

Fuel is definitely going into the fuel rail, so all the ingredients are there for it to start, but it still isn't.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

My money is on the igniter. :)

^^ This. Check. (its the black box ontop of the coilpack cover. Find another one and test)

ShinySilverDragon Enthusiast

ShinySilverDragon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok, so have checked the igniter pack, swapped it with a working one and no change to the car.

have been using consult cable to check dtc's, Nothing found.

did notice corrosion on injector plugs (previous owner lived on the beaches - i do not) so potentially has been like that for a year or more.

start attempts still dont sound quite right. Starter motor is turning, but i cannot feel the solanoid clicking...

so will continue investigations down that tangent...

all suggetions welcome :)

ShinySilverDragon Enthusiast

ShinySilverDragon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok so in addition to that... the starter doesnt sound/feel like its clicking... but the engine is turning over...

so not having much luck....

thoughs and suggestions appreciated :)

Jezza-gtR Mentor

Jezza-gtR

Posted
Posted

ok so in addition to that... the starter doesnt sound/feel like its clicking... but the engine is turning over...

so not having much luck....

thoughs and suggestions appreciated :)

Engine can't turn over if the starter inst working. :P

If you can try swapping the CAS/AFM with a known working one too. Also make sure your battery has good charge as low battery voltage can mess with the electrical systems.

Check all the intake piping after the AFM for leaks or anything popped off or something silly like that. Very hard to diagnose a car without seeing it lol.

Has any work been done recently on the car?

ShinySilverDragon Enthusiast

ShinySilverDragon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks jezza, haven't checked the CAS with a working one. But the car is definitely turning over, with the cam cover off you can see the gears turning.

Tried changing coil packs with working ones, but still no joy.

Even with a leak in the air intake, it should still start though right?

Hoping my boyfriend can borrow a Nissan diagnostic tool from his work tomorrow. Hoping that might pick up something that ecu talk missed.

Otherwise I think it will be time to send it to a good auto sparky . . . :(

ShinySilverDragon Enthusiast

ShinySilverDragon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok not the result I wanted. Tested injectiors using noid light/ injector test light, with a positive result. Unable to test all the injectors without removing all the surrounding mess.

Next suggestion has been fuel pressure, or something electrical.

Does anyone have any ideas or thoughts? Currently running very low on both. :(

Jezza-gtR Mentor

Jezza-gtR

Posted
Posted

Can you hear the fuel pump priming when the ignition is turned on?

I'm starting to think the ECU has shit itself because your problem has gone from bad to worse and now the car won't even start. If you can try a working one or get a place to test your one.

ShinySilverDragon Enthusiast

ShinySilverDragon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes fuel pump is definitely priming and pumping fuel into the fuel rail. It's unknown if it's pushing through enough pressure though.

Though that is leading to the question of where is the fuel going? As the car is pushing air out the exhaust, though doesn't appear fuely. And if it is igniting, well then what is stopping the car from starting (again leading back to electrical/ecu/unknown sensor)

Tonight I will be having a look at the ecu, unsure if testing will be possible, but will definitely try for that.

Will also be trying to swap the CAS for a known working one as well.

Hoping to have it fixed Texi in June so here's hoping something tonight works!

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

sounds like a flat battery if your starter wont even click over

jump start it with another car and if it turns over it is your battery, injectors etc wont stop it cranking lol, once you have it at least turning over but not starting get a consult cable and make sure all sensors are working.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • robbo_rb180
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      Also did some work to the shed and a massive clean out of stuff. It's now got a small fab/dirty room and has helped keep shed cleaner. Built some new work benches and re organised things also got a TV out there so good having something playing while working on the cars. Got a pedestal drill and linisher off a mate that need to pick up too.  
    • Murray_Calavera
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      First thought, have your current injectors flow tested. If they test fine, keep the diagnostics going. It's not the injectors. If the injectors are the issue, find some new or used (cleaned and flow tested) injectors.  While I really love a good excuse to get a modern ECU installed, just needing new injectors probably isn't a good enough reason to do so. 
    • robbo_rb180
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      A bit from column A, B and C. Mainly C   Update time, after deciding it was time to tick off a bucket list goal I finished up full time at MSR and have gotten back behind the wheel and making progress on the S15. Goal has been to drive Bathurst at an event and I have had my entry accepted for Challenge Bathurst in November. Since I don't want to go unprepared I need it running to test and get comfortable.  Been chipping away at it and started by stripping inside, getting it all cleaned and sealing some holes up. With stripping inside I removed the whole wiring loom and found a few surprises.......... its pretty butchered and shit branching and I'm not a fan of the haltech fuse boxes so it's all out and trying to come up with a plan to rewire it all either new fuse/relay box or pdm.  I haven't been happy with how I did the intercooler mounting and been wanting to tuck it up under rad support. O e issue with that is headlights will need a decent trim or get replacement covers. Took the time to mount it with some stand off's and new hardware. Stands are some m8 button bolts, washer, aluminium tube and factory radiator top mount rubbers. It's nice and solid also stiffens rad support which still requires some trimming. Bonus of factory rad mounting is used all factory hoses just need to weld a pressure cap to radiator now. Got sensor block and fuel filter mounted. Plan today is to get vac lines all sorted with push in nylon tube and design oil cooler mounting solution.  Been driving BRZ a heap and went out to Morgan Park for time attack and went pretty well for a wet day. https://youtu.be/gAlQgcQpWj4?si=kojOAOjhhX_X3AXR Getting pretty comfortable in it now and want to do a few more bits to it but restraining myself as don't need 2 race cars at the moment.   
    • Murray_Calavera
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @sunsetR33 There is obviously a huge culture gap here. There is nothing in place like this in Australia, where if you fit a Mines branded pipe and later replace it with a Jun branded pipe, both pipes are essentially identical - BAM - huge penalties! Where is the Mines pipe?? You can't have a Jun pipe when you said you had a Mines pipe!  Makes no sense to me. Surely makes no sense to anyone else here either.  I'm sure a lot of us would agree that our registration/engineering system is pretty stupid at times, but it's not that stupid.  *** More serious question here. If you replace a factory rubber hose with a silicone hose, is the car illegally on the road now? Does it become legal if you have certification of what brand the silicone hose is? Then would it become illegal again if you replaced that silicone hose with a difference brand of silicone hose? And then would it become legal again if you had certification of the new brand of silicone hose?  I really want to know that answer to that question. 
    • robbo_rb180
      The Ls1 R33 Of Fury

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      Good you making progress with this rig. Aluminium welding is painful to learn, have you got a pedal as I found it so much easier with one. If that's the AMG I think it is, you would working with Benny?
×
×
  • Create New...