N1 Oil Pump Into Rb26 - To Prevent Big Bearing Problems?

[JZP]

Hey there, in an effort to hold-off the inevitable big-end bearing crapping itself in my R32 GTR - I'm considering installing an N1 Oil pump.

I know it will eventually spin a big-end bearing, but I figure that at least the N1 oil pump is pushing more oil around the motor which would do a better job of keeping the big-end bearings lubricated.

My car has had the boost adjusted, high flow turbos, and an Apexi PFC - so this 20 year old car is pushing a few more KW's than standard. I'd like to keep it going a few more years before I need to re-build the engine.

Does anyone out there have experience with this? Am I just wasting my time or is there some merit in this approach??

.....Oh yeah, would a sump baffle help too??

[marksuxass]

Yeah go an N1 pump. Would be best suited for your mods. Have heard there was a shit batch of them going around but. If your going to baffle the sump you might aswell put a block restrictor in it while the engines out.

[DVS JEZ]

Oil control mods are more important than a n1 pump.

What sort of driving do u do?

[JZP]

Oil control mods are more important than a n1 pump.

What sort of driving do u do?

Occasionally it's a daily driver (when I can't be bothered driving the 4WD), but also track work.

I live in the hills, so driving mountains is a frequent occurrence.

[JZP]

Yeah go an N1 pump. Would be best suited for your mods. Have heard there was a shit batch of them going around but. If your going to baffle the sump you might aswell put a block restrictor in it while the engines out.

Block restrictor?? Ain't heard of one of those before... I'll do a search after this.

[Deano 1]

ive got a factory unopened motor, N1 pump, and tomei sump baffle done countless trackdays, drag days, big launchs, never missed abeat, i always run good oil and change it regularly

[GTRsean]

If you don't have a wide crank drive, get a crank collar for the oil pump!!

[R31Nismoid]

Oil control mods are more important than a n1 pump.

What sort of driving do u do?

+1

Ensure sump is overfilled by 1 litre is the most important part over a oil pump, which aint going to make much difference in changing when you have a short drive crank and a block without restrictors/enlarged returns etc (ie, built).

Also don't rev the arse out of it, keep it to a sane 7000rpm, maybe 7,500 - no more than that.

[Owgasm]

+1

Ensure sump is overfilled by 1 litre is the most important part over a oil pump, which aint going to make much difference in changing when you have a short drive crank and a block without restrictors/enlarged returns etc (ie, built).

Also don't rev the arse out of it, keep it to a sane 7000rpm, maybe 7,500 - no more than that.

What about oil gallery orifices? Are they worth doing?

[joeyta22]

If you don't have a wide crank drive, get a crank collar for the oil pump!!

I'm new to gtr's so gonna ask a bit of a noob question. Do r33gtr engines have this wide crank collar? I'm looking at getting a 32gtr that has 33gtr engine, n1 oil pump and restrictors in the block, just want to make sure this sounds reasonably sorted because ive heard gtr's have dramas with oiling problems.

[Piggaz]

I'm new to gtr's so gonna ask a bit of a noob question. Do r33gtr engines have this wide crank collar? I'm looking at getting a 32gtr that has 33gtr engine, n1 oil pump and restrictors in the block, just want to make sure this sounds reasonably sorted because ive heard gtr's have dramas with oiling problems.

All R33 GTR engines have the wide drive crank.

[J - Rad]

All R33 GTR engines have the wide drive crank.

And late 93'-94 R32 GT-R.

[mico]

you will need billet gears for the n1 pump for sure.

[R31Nismoid]

What about oil gallery orifices? Are they worth doing?

Enlarged returns you mean?

Depends on the build, what restrictors are used etc. Best to talk to the guy building it.

The latest 'craze' seems to be external drains for some reason. It's odd though as people rarely used them 12 months ago yet now it seems everyone needs to have one (which you really dont)

[MrStabby]

Yeah go an N1 pump. Would be best suited for your mods. Have heard there was a shit batch of them going around but. If your going to baffle the sump you might aswell put a block restrictor in it while the engines out.

You HAVE to do the other oiling mods like block restrictor etc or I *think* the N1 will make the situation WORSE! My reasoning? because the biggest risk is running out of oil at the oil pump pickup, and if you put a higher volume oil pump in, and make no other changes, you are more likely to empty the sump.

So the options are;

1. Overfill the sump (obviously a no brainer!)

2. More oil drains (what does that involve? Block modifications?)

3. Bigger sump/baffles (engine out?)

4. New N1 or similar pump (engine out?)

5. (another theory/guess of mine) dont run oil thats too think, as it will take longer to drain back to the sump

I have no direct experience, just trying to get some clarity on the options. Can someone confirm the work required for options 2/3/4?

EDIT: Doh forgot the restritors in my list - is that head off only?

[JZP]

Yikes, there seems to be a science to it!

.... or we're just complicating something that is really simple....

[Owgasm]

Enlarged returns you mean?

Depends on the build, what restrictors are used etc. Best to talk to the guy building it.

The latest 'craze' seems to be external drains for some reason. It's odd though as people rarely used them 12 months ago yet now it seems everyone needs to have one (which you really dont)

I believe so and will do.

External drains as in, a return from the back of the head/block, going back down to the sump? During possibly, quick acceleration?

[Sinista32]

Add questions.

Can you install a new oil pump and crank collar without removing the engine ?

[Duncan]

no you cannot. Or at least, it would take 2-3 times as long and require a huge amount of stuff to be removed to do it "in the engine bay".

To OP....it's probably not worth bothering doing the sorts of changes people are talking about in this thread, unless you are pulling the motor out. And if you are, you may as well do new bearings ($300) + forged pistons and rings ($1000) as well.

I would suggest just run it, and be prepared to rebuild if it fails. Even better, buy a second long motor and start building it properly, and sling it in if/when the other one fails. A second hand rb26 long motor shold be about 1500-2000.

[JZP]

no you cannot. Or at least, it would take 2-3 times as long and require a huge amount of stuff to be removed to do it "in the engine bay".

To OP....it's probably not worth bothering doing the sorts of changes people are talking about in this thread, unless you are pulling the motor out. And if you are, you may as well do new bearings ($300) + forged pistons and rings ($1000) as well.

I would suggest just run it, and be prepared to rebuild if it fails. Even better, buy a second long motor and start building it properly, and sling it in if/when the other one fails. A second hand rb26 long motor shold be about 1500-2000.

Hey there, it seems I have already ended up with a long-block! My GTR has spun a bearing and I have had racepace swap it out.

Must say though your price for a long block is pretty cheap - I couldn't find anything near that price and I rang around heaps!

So, I've now got a long block and need to put an engine rebuild shopping list together so I can buy things progressively... I'm considering building the long-block myself (or at least pulling it down and giving the parts to someone so they can build it properly). I've done a few 4-cylinder engine re-builds back when most cars had carbies and EFI was a 'new fangled thing'...

For starters - I want the engine to be daily driveable and not insane... but want it to put out a decent amount of rear wheel killerwasps... I'd like to track it too so even output across the power band would be a nice to have (I know you can't have your cake and eat it too).

I know there are heaps of threads out there with peoples 'build'. But I'd like to put together a shipping list of worthwhile things to buy... there's a lot of BS out there and any qualified help would be great.