N1 Oil Pump Into Rb26 - To Prevent Big Bearing Problems?

[Beer Baron]

no you cannot. Or at least, it would take 2-3 times as long and require a huge amount of stuff to be removed to do it "in the engine bay".

To OP....it's probably not worth bothering doing the sorts of changes people are talking about in this thread, unless you are pulling the motor out. And if you are, you may as well do new bearings ($300) + forged pistons and rings ($1000) as well.

I would suggest just run it, and be prepared to rebuild if it fails. Even better, buy a second long motor and start building it properly, and sling it in if/when the other one fails. A second hand rb26 long motor shold be about 1500-2000.

agree. doing all that stuff to a standard engine is a waste of money.

to fit just an N1 pump (which won't solve bugger all anyway) you have to remove + replace engine ($1,000-$1,500 in labour) and buy pump ~$500. That's nearly $2K just to fit an oil pump.

Then if you want to do the oil feed restrictor that's head off (another hour at least in labour, need head and block surfaces cleaned at the least or possibly machined if not flat, plus need to buy new head gasket). all to fit a $5 oil restrictor.

Then you still haven't addressed the sump so now your high flow pump is emptying your sump even quicker than before. Plus you haven't addressed the oil returns either (the internal oil returns should be enlarged to aid flow back to the sump).

Plus as duncan said you still now have a standard engine. To do it all properly it's over $3K

buy larger volume sump over $1,000

oil pump $500 up to $1800 for tomei (average spend is about $1,000 for a Jun/nitto pump, or a N1 pump + billet gears)

crank collar $150

new headgasket, $150 up to $350 for a brand name MLS gasket

restrictor $10

remove/replace engine $1,000

ported oil returns maybe $300

machining head and block $100

having done all this you still have a 20year old tired engine and have spent around $3,500-$4,000 just to address some oil control issues.

all my cars with standard motors that have lived were on the following regimen.

keep power to 300rwkw or less. keep revs to 7,500rpm or less. use the best oil I could buy (in my eyes, motul chrono 300V 10W40 but there are other good ones too), change that oil regularly, get a used oil analysis done (cheap) to tell you engine health and how the oil is performing. buy and fit a good oil cooler (put it in the side duct with proper ducting and air exit path). Do all these things and your engine should live (unless it already has a problem, or is really really high mileage).

Doing those things ensures your engine has good oil, and good stable temps all the time. keeping revs down helps stop the pump emptying the sump at an astronomical rate and keeping power down to a sensible amount keeps things happy longer. 300rwkw in a GTR is still a good fun level or power. Doing this stuff won't cost the earth. even a top line Jap oil cooler (which are excellent) is around $1,000 but you'll need it down the track anyway if you do build a motor and go for more power so it's a good investment. plus they have good resale too. on the other hand try reselling the $1500 spent removing and replacing the engine to fit the N1 pump, or even try selling a used N1 pump. it's money down the drain on a standard motor. doing it to a built motor is different. They are already out of the car and all that stuff is easy and smart to do then.

[JZP]

agree. doing all that stuff to a standard engine is a waste of money.

to fit just an N1 pump (which won't solve bugger all anyway) you have to remove + replace engine ($1,000-$1,500 in labour) and buy pump ~$500. That's nearly $2K just to fit an oil pump.

Then if you want to do the oil feed restrictor that's head off (another hour at least in labour, need head and block surfaces cleaned at the least or possibly machined if not flat, plus need to buy new head gasket). all to fit a $5 oil restrictor.

Then you still haven't addressed the sump so now your high flow pump is emptying your sump even quicker than before. Plus you haven't addressed the oil returns either (the internal oil returns should be enlarged to aid flow back to the sump).

Plus as duncan said you still now have a standard engine. To do it all properly it's over $3K

buy larger volume sump over $1,000

oil pump $500 up to $1800 for tomei (average spend is about $1,000 for a Jun/nitto pump, or a N1 pump + billet gears)

crank collar $150

new headgasket, $150 up to $350 for a brand name MLS gasket

restrictor $10

remove/replace engine $1,000

ported oil returns maybe $300

machining head and block $100

having done all this you still have a 20year old tired engine and have spent around $3,500-$4,000 just to address some oil control issues.

all my cars with standard motors that have lived were on the following regimen.

keep power to 300rwkw or less. keep revs to 7,500rpm or less. use the best oil I could buy (in my eyes, motul chrono 300V 10W40 but there are other good ones too), change that oil regularly, get a used oil analysis done (cheap) to tell you engine health and how the oil is performing. buy and fit a good oil cooler (put it in the side duct with proper ducting and air exit path). Do all these things and your engine should live (unless it already has a problem, or is really really high mileage).

Doing those things ensures your engine has good oil, and good stable temps all the time. keeping revs down helps stop the pump emptying the sump at an astronomical rate and keeping power down to a sensible amount keeps things happy longer. 300rwkw in a GTR is still a good fun level or power. Doing this stuff won't cost the earth. even a top line Jap oil cooler (which are excellent) is around $1,000 but you'll need it down the track anyway if you do build a motor and go for more power so it's a good investment. plus they have good resale too. on the other hand try reselling the $1500 spent removing and replacing the engine to fit the N1 pump, or even try selling a used N1 pump. it's money down the drain on a standard motor. doing it to a built motor is different. They are already out of the car and all that stuff is easy and smart to do then.

Thanks Beer Baron.

OK, so I have the start of a shopping list/price estimate for my long block.

buy larger volume sump over $1,000

oil pump (already have an N1 pump + billet gears)

crank collar $150 (will buy an N1 crank, not sure if I need this)

new headgasket, $150 up to $350 for a brand name MLS gasket

restrictor $10

remove/replace engine $1,000

ported oil returns maybe $300

machining head and block $100

Other items:

Bearings - ACL?

VRS kit

Pistons - suggestions on type/brand/cost?

Head studs??

[Beer Baron]

forget N1 crank. all you need is a R33 RB26 crank. they have the larger oil pump drive flats. cost about $1500 for a new crank (and well worth it for a rebuild).

Bearings, yeah ACL are fine, stock nissan also fine (but retail price is a bit exxy). nismo are nice too but again a bit pricey. 100s of RB26 with ACL or king bearings with no real problems in the materials.

VRS kit, the tomei kit is actually not bad, comes with nice 1.2mm MRS head gasket, oil restrictor, and upgraded inlet and exhaust gaskets. or there is the genuine nissan kit. or cometic kit.

pistons. there are so many choices. comes down to budget first, then preference. if you like jap stuff the tomei pistons are beautiful. very quiet and handle plenty of powa! they are not too expensive these days either, come with good ring set too. otherwise most of the china pistons are not bad, some US piston are great too. cost anywere from $800 for cheapies up to $1500 for top shelf stuff like tomei. on this note tomei rods are really well price now at $1100. they are a new design with a number of small improvements. I'd use them without question since they are not much more $$ than the china stuff.

head studs, up to you. some people swear by them, some prefer to stick with bolts (means in a pinch you can remove/replace head in car). ARP if you want head studs.

some builders have brand preference for various bits so best to talk to them before you buy too much stuff.

[ACTIVE-LSD]

ok. when you say "Overfill the Sump". is that for general street use or only track days??

because i'm hearing mixed stories. some people say overfill your sump even for street use. but the question is. wouldn't that just damage the engine?

[R31Nismoid]

Just for track where you will be sitting in upper rpm for extended periods.