Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i was driving along

and all of a sudden my turbo was hesitating to hit boost and i could feel it under my foot the throttle was a lilttle bit shakey

this happens at about 4.5 revs car is stock its like the turbo is lagging? im not to sure what to do?

any advice would be appreciated

car is R32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364505-turbo-hestiation/
Share on other sites

I see

well umms

when I put my foot down it goes to about 3000 Revs then it starts to struggle to get to 4000 the. At 4000 it will jerk and rev up to 5000? It's

and it's stuggle real hard I guess when I try and hit boost it's not

comfortable :(

thanks

Mate, Did a quick search for ya and found this.

Misfire under boost thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...?showtopic=1456

Anyway, I’ll post here so that it’s in one thread

Most common cause for the RB25det misfire/stutter/what ever you want to call it, at the 5000 – 5500rpm range is that it is at it’s maximum load.

This causes any small problems in the electrical system to show it’s head.

Things you can do on the cheap or even free are as follows:

1.) take out your coil packs and tape them up with electrical tape. Use quality tape, not the 6 for $2 type.

I did 3 tight layers.

When you take them out, you will see that from the actual COIL down towards the spark plug is a rubber boot.

I started at the base of the rubber boot (spark plug end) and wrapped the tape tightly all the way up to the coil and back down and back up. Each rotation goes HALF over the last one.

So 3 layers.. up, down, back up.

This prevents any hair line cracks that may be there from ARCING out any of the spark.

2.) spark plugs. If they are old, replace them with NGK BCPR6ES-8 (if they don’t have the -8’s you can also use the -11’s but will have to re-gap them)

Make sure they are gapped down to 0.8mm (you will need a feeler tool if you don’t already have one – they cost about $30 from what I can remember)

If your plugs are new or newish (I’d say spark plugs are only good for about 20,000kms) make sure they are gapped to 0.8mm.

Put the spark plugs in and tighten properly, put the newly taped coil packs back in.

3.) Take off your AFM (Air flow meter – it is bolted to your air filter box or pod filter if you have one of those)

Get a can of degreaser. Spray the INSIDE of the unit.. you will see a little knob in there with wires… make sure you spray them good.

Now rinse out under the tap (not too high pressure).

Repeat the above degreaser and wash step if not totally clean.

Once you rinse it, you will need to dry it.

I used a hair dryer on it till it was completely dry.

Put it back on your car and plug it all in.

Good to go.

MY VTEC FELL OFF!! I knew it would eventually find its way to SAU, MY TURBO FELL OFF!!

Sorry mate had to do it..

In reality its probably nothing to do with the turbo, try to troubleshoot the electrics as stated above and follow the FSM diagnosis methods :)

Lol sorry just stressing I mean was Tod tto use 0.8 but repconony had 11

so wondering if the gap would

make a big iffrence?

Who taught you to use a keyboard?

0.8 gap would be ideal, if you got coppers then just take them out and gap them down.

Lol sorry just stressing I mean was Tod tto use 0.8 but repconony had 11

so wondering if the gap would

make a big iffrence?

gap makes a huge differance.

id take the plugs out and re-gap them.

also check your intercooler pipes for loose clamps or split pipes, could also be your problem.

or a basic vacuum hose has come of or split

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Do the following first and get back to us. - Clean and verify your IACV - Verify for vacuum leaks/post MAF leaks. (Pressure test is the best and cheapest way) - Do you have a BOV with stock ecu/MAF? If so, remove it.     
    • Hey all, The skyline I have is stalling when the engine is at normal operating temp.  When starting it while it is cold, it'll run just fine.  I have replaced the battery (bad cell), I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and clean the MAF sensor.  Any other suggestions?
    • Thanks for all the information on this.  I tried ordering the parts from Amayama website and all 3 Solenoids are discontinued and not available.  Does anyone have any other websites to suggest that I could find the parts?   Separate issue-- I will start a new thread, but basically the vehicle is stalling when warmed up.
    • It's unfortunate what Tomei USA has done to Tomei's name in general. I'm very weary of ordering parts from them now. I only order direct from a Japanse source (e.g Nengun). At least their logos are different, so you end up knowing what you have. 
    • Update Issues 5 (plus #4) - 10 After making a claim about issue #4's missing part, DeAgostini Japan sent a whole new issue #4 and it arrived about 2 weeks after that. That was back in early March. It took another 4 weeks to receive issues 5 - 13 though. This update is for issues 5 - 10. Ove the 5 issues the front left suspension and most of the engine have been completed. The quality of the castings and fit of the parts is quite good, it seems better than DeAgostini's BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the Fast & Furious 2 movie, which (to me anyway) doesn't seem to have as tight tolerances or quite as accurate castings.  Each issue has a lot of info about the 1989 - 1993 Skyline range and other Nissan models from that era, but the focus is on the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo and the various racing it did in Japan, Europe (Spa 24hrs) and of course Australia. I've included some text translated with Google Lens in some photos and will add to them if there's anything worth including. 
×
×
  • Create New...