Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After searching the topic for a couple of hours, and finding nothing, I decided to make a post..

I purchased a rolling shell (r33 series 1.5) and with just the loom in my possession (motor had been discarded). I need to indentify if the motor I need for direct replacement is a series I or series II.

Am i able to tell just by engine number? (from previous rego) maybe the VIN? Or any specific wires on the ECU PLUG? (car has no ecu)

Or should I not worry about which motor I buy and just replace the whole wiring? (how hard is this?)

Any help on this matter would be most appreciated..

Thanks,

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364606-rb25det-series-i-or-ii/
Share on other sites

Won't matter dude what motor you get.

The ignition setup (and ignition loom) will come with the motor, its not dependant on the actual engine loom itself.

I believe the ECU can in some instances be a minor issue. Paulr33 was saying he's seen something. Hopefully he will post - but either way ECU's are $50 - so tis not a big problem neccesarily and easy to fix.

More important you get a good condition motor, have it checked out and so on.

S1/S2 motors for all intents and purposes produce the same results and are equally reliable. Just ignition is the major difference with a S2 motor not having the "black box" ignitor up the back of the coil pack cover

Won't matter dude what motor you get.

The ignition setup (and ignition loom) will come with the motor, its not dependant on the actual engine loom itself.

Thanks for the reply!

Just wanting to do as little work as possible. So easier to just run through firewall? Most engines come with the ECU anyway..

What specifically should i look for when buying? (first engine i've had to buy)

ye true, i thought he might have had the AFM and ECU already which would kinda negate any need as when you buy a "motor" you rarely get all the I/C piping, intake etc. Usually just the elbows off the inlet/outlets.

Depends on what one means by rolling shell as he said he had a loom, mehbee he has other stuff :D

yeah that sounds like the AFM plug

if its 3 wire its series 2 GTST, if its 4 wire its series 1 GTST

for all intensive purposes S1 and S2 AFM and ECU are same

there are minor differences, most noticable is S2 is 3wire, vs S1 4 wire AFM (duplicated ground wire)

the ECU's have minor differences and there is the MEC chip difference as well

basically if you get it all running and you have the wrong MEC chip type

the car runs like ass, is sluggish as f**k and basically runs like a whore

so if you hit this, check the basics, then try another stock ECU

ive got a stock series 2 ecu here so if your stuck can help (ie if you have s1 ECU and it runs like ass all sensors etc look OK)

a very vauable tool when doing engines swaps is get a working consult cable

that way you can tap into the basic onboard diag and check every sensor from a single screen

it even tells why the engine fails to start

ie

ENGINE FAILED TO START, 3 TIMES, SENSOR XYZ... CHECK

yeah that sounds like the AFM plug

if its 3 wire its series 2 GTST, if its 4 wire its series 1 GTST

there's no plug, just wires, i dunno how hard yours are to see but can u see the wires running into plug? is there a thick white one? and a skinny black with white striped wire? If anyone could confirm this..

yeah if you get it wrong you wont have to swap the entire loom, hell no

it will be 1 or 2 wires flip around or move etc

after all the powerfc is the same unit for s1 and s2 direct plug into the loom plug

so there cant be that much difference really

the differences as others have said is on the engine side wiring and where things go

and the end they all mate to the master loom which meets the ecu loom

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...