Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It would be around 140kwatw.... Dyno readings don't mean shit though.

My S13 with-

C.E.S twin dump pipe (no cat)

Fujitsubo Power Getter catback

K&N pod

11psi

made 165kwatw at Dyson Rotary dyno. Now that figure can't be true, probably closer to 145

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36468-what-rwkw/#findComment-729920
Share on other sites

depends on how well the dyno is calibrated too.

i know we have this problem in the car audio industry, we tuned a car on a relatively new meter and mic and got it fairly flat. took it to a comp with these settings and it was all over the place, then not to mention that the most db anyone could get was 134, and alot of the cars were 140+db cars. found that they hadn't had it calibrated in years and still haven't

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36468-what-rwkw/#findComment-730016
Share on other sites

my brother had a 97 blacktop 180 that had an S-AFC, profec B BC, a cannon of an exhaust (145DB) and at 13psi it had 150rwkw.... for interest the car also had a nismo diff locker with very soft suspenion(quikoffthe line)...it was a very fast car(eh in a straight line!), it used to kill my s2 R33 which had about 170rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36468-what-rwkw/#findComment-730282
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
    • Brand was ard.   I also threw a brand new battery at it and beefed up the wire from the alternator to battery and added an extra earthing point from the battery 
    • Evening all,       I'm replacing some bolts on my RB25 with probolt Australia bolts.       Does anyone know the following, m5 m6 etc 10mm 20mm etc       Coil cover   Cam covers   Plazamaman fuel rail   Front cover (timing cover)   Etc   Any help would be awesome   Or any lists anywhere
×
×
  • Create New...