Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

They system is physically different in terms of the actual mechanics so it would probably not work.

If there was a schematic for the system you could compare.

Things like extra sensors, inputs and stuff might exist?

They system is physically different in terms of the actual mechanics so it would probably not work.

If there was a schematic for the system you could compare.

Things like extra sensors, inputs and stuff might exist?

There is a schematic of the R32 unit in the manual that everyone has a copy of. Never seen one off an R33.

At the end of the day you have the usual range of sensor inputs - wheel speed, accelerometers, brake input, TPS and that is it.

attessa schematic.pdf

the best and quickest way is to find the control module on yahoo jp auctions for 32 33 34

check the photos and compare differences

youll soon see if the loom connector is different

im sure you guys arent the first in the world to try it

otherwise everyone who had BNR32 would buy BCNR33/BNR34 attessa as the first mod to increase handling

Yeah, good find paul, but I would still be interested in seeing what is involved in putting the newer system in a 32.

If we can write up a list of what we need I will look into tracking some stuff down, because I know atleast one other person then myself who would be very interested in this.

But that will not help with the sample rate will it ?

was talking of completely transplanting the whole system from a 33/34 into my 32 and making all the sensors work.

Not sure.

R32/33/34 attesa is the same mechanically. 34 transfer case is a little different from memory in that it fits to the getrag box but I'd have to look at one again to be sure. but they are still basically the same thing. you can transplant the ecu etc from a 34 into a 32 just need to know the right pinouts etc to get it working. I've seen it done in japan in a 32 with 34 attesa and 34 abs too.

if you want to go the whole hog you can buy a 34 getrag and transfer case, put that in, then get all the sensors and ecu's needed to run it. might as well go 34 ABS while you're at it and maybe add a 34 engine ecu and cas etc so you can basically have 34 driveline in a 32. then you could easily add the MFD too. would be nice to have 34 ABS/ATTESA and MFD in a 32.

R32/33/34 attesa is the same mechanically. 34 transfer case is a little different from memory in that it fits to the getrag box but I'd have to look at one again to be sure. but they are still basically the same thing. you can transplant the ecu etc from a 34 into a 32 just need to know the right pinouts etc to get it working. I've seen it done in japan in a 32 with 34 attesa and 34 abs too.

if you want to go the whole hog you can buy a 34 getrag and transfer case, put that in, then get all the sensors and ecu's needed to run it. might as well go 34 ABS while you're at it and maybe add a 34 engine ecu and cas etc so you can basically have 34 driveline in a 32. then you could easily add the MFD too. would be nice to have 34 ABS/ATTESA and MFD in a 32.

Nah I have done the re shimming thing & done the controller that fiddles with the lateral gee input for more front bias.

But going from 4Hz to 100Hz must make the system more reactive & more repeatable. I mean, at only 100kmh you are moving about 7 metres every quarter of a second. So it is not like the R32 system is on the ball.

How do we get hold of the 33 pinouts? Anyone got a manual?

R32/33/34 attesa is the same mechanically. 34 transfer case is a little different from memory in that it fits to the getrag box but I'd have to look at one again to be sure. but they are still basically the same thing. you can transplant the ecu etc from a 34 into a 32 just need to know the right pinouts etc to get it working. I've seen it done in japan in a 32 with 34 attesa and 34 abs too.

if you want to go the whole hog you can buy a 34 getrag and transfer case, put that in, then get all the sensors and ecu's needed to run it. might as well go 34 ABS while you're at it and maybe add a 34 engine ecu and cas etc so you can basically have 34 driveline in a 32. then you could easily add the MFD too. would be nice to have 34 ABS/ATTESA and MFD in a 32.

f**k yeah !

I remember reading about a workshop that basically put all the goodies from the 34 into the 32.

I think it would be quite a large improvement.

As for manuals, I'm capped at the moment until midnight, but I will track one down once I can load web pages again :/

  • 10 months later...

hi i know this is a old post but i am fitting a r34 gtr motor to my s1 stagea and would like some info.

i am prob going to need to run the 34 ecu and engine loom do u know if they are locked and would i have any probs with fitting it to the stagea?

and is there any other way of telling i have a 34R motor besides the the cas , turbos , color of the rocket covers or injectors?

and is there some where i can check the engine numb with out the rest of the car info?

The R34 gtr ecu's are key coded, so you don't want to go down that path unless you are using a power fc or other after market engine management. Your better off with an R32/R33 ecu and then reversing the pin order on the CAS, keeping an R34 CAS.

The engine block number will be able to shed some more light on the engine type.

R33 numbers started at RB26-0479xx

R34 numbers started at RB26-069xxx

http://webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=47:engine-number-register&catid=42:engine-number-registers&Itemid=2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...