My Car Just Went Bang

[hypergear]

Might want to say some thing:

The SS-1 is a complex turbo to build, To get most response and most power with the least RPMs possible it runs ported T2x flow tunnel, FNT turbine nozzles, T3 turbine inlet with a Nissan 6 bolt outlet. This make the highest power out put within the most usable rpm range equivalent in response to a HKS2530 while maxing out similar power and torque as a 3071.

The turbine housing do require welding and plenty of other fabrications to archive the desired ending result so its not nice looking at this stage, and I believe Ebay turbos do infact "look better".

I've personally installed this turbo on my own R33 twice and had a mechanic installed it in to a R34 GTST (Harey) I've posted photos of installation as well as photo of the actual turbo in my thread for every one to look up unless Stagea's setup is slightly different.

Technical installation instruction based on GTST is on our thread using factory water lines, oil feeding and drain pipe adaptor supplied. But either way happy to assist with installation and instructions.

[chef_stagea]

whats the go with the rear housing/dump attachment :S looks ghetto as...

an rb is an rb... there no diff from model to model (car model that is)....

[hypergear]

The most response we can get out of Standard T3x turbine housing with T3x based wheel is: (Generally with GT30x turbos)

Compare to a T3x based wheel but built into the SS customized turbine tunnel:

Exact same top end, SS1 with customized turbine tunnel is 700RPMs more responsive.

Standard T3x turbine tunnel is very smooth on road but I want some thing more dynamic. So we've trailed few housings.

This year we've tested the idea of FNT turbine, which worked outstandingly combine it with the most "responsive" housing supports the relevant power range and we ended up with the SS-1.

Here are some photos of the rear housing taken during manufacturing:

finished housing:

Its not a very nice looking finish. But best for the job.

Installation:

The water lines are abit hard to fit, The chassis side fits on pretty easily, the turbo to engine side is not, There are 2x bracket holding the line to on the head, and its connected to a rubber hose from the inlet manifold side. Once the brackets are loosen the hard water hose "floats" and thats how I managed to fit that on to the bearing housing.

The bolt behind the buttom right was hard to tight, needs a 13mm nut with a small spanner. The oil drain adaptor just connects to a hose which goes to the drain port. It is harder to install compare to ATR43 normal versions, but wasn't some thing really special thou.

[wolverine]

The only true bolt on turbos are stockers and simple hi-flows like GCG.

Having said that once you start modifying cars the first rule I have learnt is nothing in the performance world is truly bolt on. They always need trimming, new studs or exotic nuts that aren't available at 2pm on a saturday.

The way around this is to spend more money on Japanese product like the HKS range. I bought my second HKS turbo from here at SAU but was missing a few oddball sized nuts etc. It took lots of running around at the last minute to find something suitable. Mitsubishi had them but wanted $18/nut!!

I spent 30 minutes fitting my bolt-on catalytic converter last Thursday to find that the last guy had modified the existing front cat flange to fit the exhaust rather than the other way around. The new cat is perfect but a fat lot of good that has done me. Another welcome to the modified car scene for me. I fitted a Fenix radiator (thru SAU NSW) it fitted almost perfectly on the R33 barring the AC temp sensor. The stagea will not be so easy when I get around to removing that pissy little OEM radiator.

Turbos have nothing to do with beauty contests they are there to pump air and this one, even running at 90% of the posted dynos, will be great to drive.

Check out the 200rwkw at 4000rpm.

I think once this is bolted up it will be a nice bit of kit.

[lilcrash]

I don't doubt that it might make good power. Until I go and buy some water lines I won't know what it drives like. Te chassis side water line is too short by about 14mm. And the engine side one if I bend it anymore its gonna snap.

[chef_stagea]

1 thing after another lol...

[pipster11]

don't let it get you down

i had a shit fight getting the stock turbo back on

its hard any way you do it

maybe there is some slight differences between the neo and non neo manifolds

Edited June 11, 2011 by pipster11

[hypergear]

Its not hard to install, Just depending on how experienced the installer is. The SS-1 is harder to install due to limited working area, need smaller tools. All High flows and other ATR43 models are lot easier to fit.

I should have taken more detailed photos of factory water lines before our mechanic fitted them on. I will buy another stock R33 next week and guide you through the installation.

[lilcrash]

I think with enough practice the stock lines may work but mine are just over bent and about to crack. Ahhhhh I don't like trying to use the air box, the bends are a pain in the ass to get right, I'm getting a pod filter tomorrow.

[pipster11]

i'm super keen to hear the results

i'm undecided wether to sell up or mod mine

i love it but it just feels so heavy

[lilcrash]

I was selling mine until it went bang and now it's not worth selling. I owe more on it then I can sell it for now. If I don't get the power I want il prob sell the engine package and buy a 2jzgte and go that way. The stagea is too heavy for a 2.5 I think.

[hypergear]

I've just bought a clean stock R33 to show you the DIY. Assume engine setup are identical you should be able to fit it your self with out additional parts flowing my steps. It starts from:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__view__findpost__p__5862570

[lilcrash]

Oh yay. One more problem to add, my atr43 has 18mm holes for the water lines and my water lines are 14mm. Time to give up I think. I am not paying another $250 just to get custom lines. Anyone want a brand new atr43 SS-1?

[hypergear]

Stock water lines for R33/R34 Rb25det skyline is in M18x1.5. I remember the M35 stagea has a totally different turbo to skylines, I think this one is no difference, sorta make sense that nothing fits. Stagea owners might want to make a note. I wasn't aware its going to a stagea.

If you still like to use the SS-1 turbocharger, send it back with your stock turbo, I can modify it to have the exact fitting position as well as fittings to your factory unit at no additional cost.

Or I'm sure skyline owners would be happy to purchase it from you.

[lilcrash]

its the right turbo for the stagea, i purchased braided water lines and they had the wrong fittings, ive got some adapters now but i cant get the water line out from behind the head.

so to all the atr43 ss-1 is the right one for the stagea.

ive run out of time now so im gonna have to see if i can steal a car from someone to get to work. i had a week off to fix the stagea but ive had too many set backs now.

[pipster11]

almost sounds like you've got r32 water lines (supposedly different sized banjos)

very odd tho

[lilcrash]

They were advertised as r33/r34 Garret water lines. Do Garett have smaller water lines?

[pipster11]

dunno, maybe

they are deffinately different to stock, hence why the 3076 bolt on kit is so much more than the price of the turbo itself

[wolverine]

Stock water lines for R33/R34 Rb25det skyline is in M18x1.5. I remember the M35 stagea has a totally different turbo to skylines, I think this one is no difference, sorta make sense that nothing fits. Stagea owners might want to make a note. I wasn't aware its going to a stagea.

If you still like to use the SS-1 turbocharger, send it back with your stock turbo, I can modify it to have the exact fitting position as well as fittings to your factory unit at no additional cost.

Or I'm sure skyline owners would be happy to purchase it from you.

It is the same engine and turbo as the R34 GT-t so being a stagea should make no difference.

[lilcrash]

Ok well thanks to my wife. I have my water lines sorted out. Let's just hope that the rubber o rings don't melt and leak now I just need to try to make an air cleaner pipe and find something to use as an oil drain. Has anyone had any problems with using the stock airbox, up until now mine has been sucking large amounts of the bonnet lining in, I'm pretty sure this will only get worse with more boost. I weekly have to pull chunks of the paper out so it can breath and my Christmas tree clips only last a few minutes before they are gone.