Jump to content
SAU Community

Volk Racing Gtc Wheels

PM-R33

By PM-R33,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

This has been doing my head in recently so I need to find out more info before I spend money on something that aint going to work.

So basically as most people know, Volk GTC wheels require special Rays Lug Nuts to make them fit. These lut nuts look like this:

volk_gtc_lug.jpg

3773710952_a5927a1986.jpg

They are expensive, don't look all that great and if you loose/break one you are pretty screwed.

Everyone uses these as they are basically the only option and no other lug nuts fit.

However when I bought my wheels I thought that maybe if I got longer wheel studs it would allow me to run normal lug nuts.

Turns out it works and I run normal open ended lug nuts like this:

16-TUNER-LUG-NUTS-LUGS-ACURA-CL-INTEGRA-LEGEND-TC-VIGOR-for-sale_130331547836.jpg

So my question is. If I now run normal open ended lug nuts as above, does that mean that I can now run some form of Rays lug nut?

duranut_blk.jpg

I really want some black lug nuts that are closed on the end. Not open ended because it looks all crappy rusted inside.

The issue is the diameter of the lug nut. As on the GTC wheel they go completely inside and actually "lock in" towards the middle of the wheel instead of right on the outside.

But if you look at a picture such as this of a different type of aftermarket lug nut, it appears that something might work since it looks to be the same diameter as my one on the far right?

DSC01349.jpg

Thoughts? I'm getting to confused by constantly looking at different pictures of lug nuts and I just want some damn black closed ended lug nuts lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365010-volk-racing-gtc-wheels/
Share on other sites
Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted

You can get the racing spec D1 lite-weight racing nuts and they should fit fine. Looks good too. They cost around $110. Don't be fooled by Ebay copies. Get them from JustJap, Nengun etc.

Cheers.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

See the main thing that I keep thinking is that maybe a socket won't go over it since they sit all the way inside the wheel and there simply won't be enough room? Hence why the Ray GTC lug nuts are open ended since that is all you will ever fit.

Here a picture is worth a thousand words. Will explain the differences.

post-35676-0-05184700-1305983785_thumb.jpg

After drawing that I really don't fit there is any other options than what I allready have.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • joshuaho96
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Duncan
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • GTSBoy
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...