Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Remove Rear Gtr Badge Safely

Spunky Munky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted

Hi fellas,

I've given it some thought and I've decided to remove my GTR badges to go for the clean look.

Do you guys know how to do this safely without leaving any scratches? Although I know there aren't any screws, the badge is pretty well stuck on with the strong 3M tape as it's an original GTR badge?

Cheers.

Kev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365094-how-to-remove-rear-gtr-badge-safely/
Share on other sites
JnJ Experienced

JnJ

Posted
Posted

Hi fellas,

I've given it some thought and I've decided to remove my GTR badges to go for the clean look.

Do you guys know how to do this safely without leaving any scratches? Although I know there aren't any screws, the badge is pretty well stuck on with the strong 3M tape as it's an original GTR badge?

Cheers.

Kev

why would you...? post up pics when done i wanna see it.

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

I have removed a few GTR badges over ther years and I use the fishing line method.

It is important to start the line between the adhesive and the badge and work it back and forth in a cutting action. The trick is to leave the adhesive strip on the panel and not mark the paint. When the badge is off then soften up the adhesive with something like prepsol and slowly peel it off.

Good luck and if you take your time you can get them off with no paint damage.

Mangune Mentor

Mangune

Posted
Posted

I Used the old hair dryer, No fishing line just got something under it. Use a rag to protect the paint if its a damaging object the as you still circulate the heat around the badge area pell back the badge. Then used eucalyptus oil to help get off the glue.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

I have removed a few GTR badges over ther years and I use the fishing line method.

It is important to start the line between the adhesive and the badge and work it back and forth in a cutting action. The trick is to leave the adhesive strip on the panel and not mark the paint. When the badge is off then soften up the adhesive with something like prepsol and slowly peel it off.

Good luck and if you take your time you can get them off with no paint damage.

+1 = foolproof

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...