Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

My projectors in my 32 arnt realy good for visability at night time so i was thinking of getting some h3c HID Lights to go in behind the projector lenses. has this / can this be done.

All help would be appreciated

thanks all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365134-hid-lights-into-r32-projrceors/
Share on other sites

don't put hid into 32, it will still be crap and u will oncoming cars

I'm using Phillips xtreme power 80% and it's bloody good, I could barely see anything at night prior, it cost more than other bulbs, still cheaper than hid but great improvement

Just take the halogens out and put the HID bulbs in. Find a place for the ballasts.

Job done.

Been covered before, do a search.

ok thanks for the help but i have searched and cant find a H3C made by vega Diamond so will H3 Work??

hey I had the same issue in not finding any bulbs to fit H3C,

I think stuffed up, I just bought a H1 adapter plate, it simply replaced the plate/bracket where the bulb sits in, and I bought a H1 HID kit.

It could be a general issue with having the H1 or any other longer bulb than that is the same length as the H3C, is that as I have speculated tonight it will spread the beam more wider then pissing off other oncoming drivers, and so on.

If your chasing a HID kit, I reckon:

dont get something that is no different length than the H3C,

and if you need an adapter plate that'll hold your new bulb, get it from importmonster or something

cheers

I made the H1 HID's I got for the wagon fit the H3C bulb holders. Was a fair bit of fking around, drilling and cutting but they fit nice now. When I get a new battery I'll fire them up and see what it looks like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... fk...   there goes 25K to make 200kW
    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
×
×
  • Create New...