Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK so I installed a 3" ballistic cat from Sureflo with 4.5" 100 cell body.

Came with flanges and bolted straight in. Even had a spot perfectly located for mounting the temp probe.

Previously I had a 300cell high-flow ceramic cat (3" pipe and didn't have the temp probe bung).

Sound:

At idle it sounds slight crisper but not noticeably louder.

Onto boost and full noise it is also crisper sounding and probably 3db louder. (ie. definitely noticeable but nothing overly dramatic to the ear).

Performance (objective):

Well objectively I can say the car makes 0.5psi more max boost on all 3 manual settings with my IDIII controller.

12.2 became 12.8

14.1 became 14.6

15.0 became 15.5

It also reaches boost 200rpm earlier in 2nd and 3rd (yes I can plot this accurately).

These were all average measurements at similar night temperatures (yes it varies a little with temp). But this is repeatable and probably conservative as it was warmer than the previous night.

Performance (subjective):

Well here it gets difficult. It does feel faster even at the same boost pressure as before.

Overall:

Well obviously the cat reduced back pressure in the exhaust which means extra performance. how much? I'd say the the 3-4% figure seems about right which means another 7 to 9kw at the wheels. This would entirely come about from the reduced pressure differential between intake and exhaust. With typical turbine pressure ratios of 1.8 to 2.0 I'd estimate I have reduced back pressure after the turbine by 1psi

1psi drop??? Does that matter?:

My car would produce ~900lb/min exhaust flow. Taking bench testing results this would mean ~2.5psi for a 300cell cat and 1.5psi for a 100cell 4.5" body. Then I'd add 1psi for the down pipe and 1psi for the rest of the exhaust. giving a previous total of 4.5psi, and a new total of 3.5psi.

the pre-turbine pressure would then be:

now, (3.5+14.5)*1.8 = 32.4psi (17.9 relative)

before, (4.5+14.5)*1.8 = 34.2 (19.7 relative)

I have intake pressure of 14.5 so the ratio of intake to exhaust pressure was 19.7/14.5 = 1.36

but now it is 1.23

And that ratio is efficiency and explains both the extra power and the boost creep.

In the end I have made a shed load of assumptions in the above and am probably now qualified to write a Today Tonight expose. But really I just like the crisper and slightly louder sound plus a bit more power (all while being a bit green).

I also have a spare cat in working condition should the emissions testing get more severe (but atm I think I'd pass pretty comfortably).

Edited by simpletool

As said above, it sounds crisper. I cant judge on performance. My car was stock running stock cat. I upgraded the turbo and cat at the same time so I am in no position to draw a line on performance but all I can say is if it can flow better it should perform better. General rule of thumb, to an extent.

Yeah when I post from work I can get a bit technical...bad habit.

Essentially less back pressure is multiplied by the turbine housing to be even more back pressure in the exhaust manifold. The exhaust air and sometimes (valve overlap) intake air must work against this back pressure somewhat when filling the engine. Less back pressure is a good thing.

Cost was $290, but the prices might vary a bit. This was with flanges.

I figure $290 for slight gain, and more response. And I'd pay $870 for triple the benefits in a heartbeat.

I've run a single cell for over 4 years in the stagea and 3 years prior in one of old cars and never had any issue with the police. But they did both shoot flames quite happily on down shifts.

I've run a single cell for over 4 years in the stagea and 3 years prior in one of old cars and never had any issue with the police. But they did both shoot flames quite happily on down shifts.

I wouldn't ever post that on a public forum that is easily searchable..with a picture of a conspicuous car....and will still be here in years to come. Especially with so little to gain from writing it.

Edited by simpletool

I doubt that anyone would be bored enough to search forums for illegally modded cars and I'm not worried about the police anyway, It's those damn purple lighted cars I'm scared of, I see them about once a year driving around and they can actually defect a car. All police written defects I've gotten have been removed without touching a thing. But the rta guys know what is and isn't legal so they always get me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
×
×
  • Create New...