Jump to content
SAU Community

Slinky Needs Help With Engine Light!

slinky-minky

By slinky-minky,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

slinky-minky Community Regular

slinky-minky

Posted
Posted

Hi guys! I have a problem with my r34 gt-v (non turbo 2000 model)where the orange engine light comes on and stays on after 4 mins of driving(now it comes on after a minute) a mechanic got the fault code which is 21- “ignition signal primary” after taking $44 from me he told me it was a coil pack and the next day took em apart and tested them and said they were fine and charged me another $120!!! (labour)

done some of my own research and some ideas of what it could be is: COIL PACK, IGNITER UNIT/switch..... although i think the igniter units are on the coil packs in the r34’s.

so..... what would u guys do from here? How much for new coilpacks? Spitfires? Pay another mechanic to test more competently? If so who? Keep driving it until the problem is easier to find? Will this do “Warning damage to the manifold!” lol i mean engine.

Thanx in advanceJ!

Slinky

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365344-slinky-needs-help-with-engine-light/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Grey Community Regular

Grey

Posted
Posted

same thing happened to me which place did u go to just pm me, and after that they changed the spark plugs, and that didn't fix it when i came to collect so then they reverted back to coilpacks and charged me another 140 for the coilpacks after 220 on the spark plugs -_______-

  • 2 weeks later...
GreyFox Newbie

GreyFox

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi.

I have the same problem, though it can go days without coming on.

It usually comes on when i am taking it easy and not really boosting much (RB25DET NEO)

When the light comes on the car noticably runs a bit rougher but i usually can turn the car off and then on again and the light is cleared.

Took it to a mechanic that specializes in EFI as I head it could be a leaking fuel injector.

He got the code (I think it may have been 21?)

Changed the first coil as he said it was faulty, replaced all spark plugs,

called me to pick it up then changed his mind as light came on again,

kept my car for two weeks (which was ok as i was waiting on compliance plates)

then charged me $560.00 to which i stupidly paid at the time.

Still have problem three years later and have been reluctant to get someone to look at it again..

Has anyone heard of a leaking injector causing this?

Thanks

Edited by GreyFox
Grey Community Regular

Grey

Posted
Posted

hold on... you paid 220$ for spark plugs..

i paid 20 for diagnostic (coilpacks - this wasn't the problem according to them)

i paid 20 for testing

i paid 20 for spark plugs

i paid 160 for 2 hours of mechanical work

adds up to 220, but the thing is, it didn't fix anything

NOW I KNOW HOW TO DO IT MYSELF!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Shoota_77
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • r32-25t
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By r32-25t · Posted

      At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...