Jump to content
SAU Community

C4 Gearbox Help(Non Skyline Though)

SargeRX8
 Share

Recommended Posts

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys.

I know its not a skyline but I'm sure there is someone here familiar with them. We've got the C4 box with B&M shifter. It was all working fine until now. When you put it into reverse it doesn't go. The wheels are locked. 1, 2 and drive are fine. Reverse won't reverse and sometimes neutral also acts as a drive gear.

Any idea what could be up with this? Could it be the adjustment on the shifter is out or internal box issue? Does anyone know any reputable service centers for these kind of gearboxes?

Cheers

The box was rebuilt to support the power the car was making.

Edited by SargeRX8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365367-c4-gearbox-helpnon-skyline-though/
Share on other sites
RS4-S Proficient

RS4-S

Posted
Posted

mate had a similar problem with his VN commodore powered rodeo with a B&M. i put the rear on stands, disconnected the shifter and changed the gears at the box and all was fine. needed to adjust the cables at the shifter, obviously ripping on them all day they are going to stretch out of adjustment.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nothing had been changed and it was on there since we bought the car. I too suspect the adjustment is off. Ive never dealt with this kind of stuff before and worried if I pull it off, the shifter that is, I might have issues putting it back on.

We diagnosed it by putting the back on stands as you did but we didn't attempt to change gears on the box directly. We shall give that a go and hope its the problem.

turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
Posted

You have an internal problem by the sounds of it, on KEAS's website they list Craigs Automatics in sydney http://www.keas.com.au/ i've never dealt with them but my old workshop SWAT does work for KEAS so they (craigs) must be ok

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr 路 Posted

      Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 馃檪 
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 路 Posted

      forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 路 Posted

      neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • TurboTapin
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By TurboTapin 路 Posted

      Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu 路 Posted

      Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
脳
脳
  • Create New...