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Nice write up solder thank you. that problem had fallen into another days fun. I wanted to get this cold side in and turned over so it was wired up the same to get a start. no luck I got a couple of cough’s before the battery died unfortunately. we have some wether on the way and I’m back to work, I will order your plugs and re wire them in the near future. 🤙 -
By joshuaho96 · Posted
It was simpler than that. Few things going on. One is that I hate plastic clutch alignment tools. Anybody who reads this in the future and is considering one, don't. Even for 3 USD it's not worth it. Mine left plastic shreds all over the inside of the clutch hub. Now I need a proper steel one and to re-grease the hub splines very carefully without leaving any excess that could go into the friction disk or anywhere else unintended. The second is that I'm bad at reading directions. There is a step in the instruction manual that tells you to put in the 3 M6 bolts BEFORE you attempt to put the clutch onto the flywheel which has been bolted to the crank. You should tighten them slowly and evenly in half turn increments so the springs all compress evenly. Once hand tight back it off until the friction disk can move around between the midplate and the pressure plate. Otherwise the hub won't be able to move properly to line up everything. The last point which is possibly the most important and is not mentioned in the manual or anywhere at all is that the friction disks are actually not symmetrical. There is a very, very subtle asymmetry to the fingers where they mesh with the hub. These fingers need to be pointing towards the midplate. This helps to make sure the friction disks stay engaged with the hub. Otherwise there is a distinct risk they pop up and out of the hub while you assemble, leading to the warped pressure plate I posted initially. -
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..m'kay.... I see on my phone you're having difficulties interpreting the artfully hand drawn R31 wiring diagrams... you wouldn't credit it, but they're actually more accurate than those colour diagrams in gregory's and the like... ...for your purposes though, the wiring colour legend is on sheet 1.... ....the fuel pump connector is top right on sheet 2.... ...pin1 (black) goes to chassis ground -- pin5 (light green/red trace)... The best way to navigate those drawings, is to open them up in whatever image manipulation/paint program you like, and use the straight line/ruler tool (with a highlight colour) to trace along the wire lines...not hard, no rocket science involved... Fun facts: The OEM diagrams are drawn to top trim level spec ~ so for example, you're looking at Silo spec wiring, but the base S3 Executive trim is also covered by the same drawing (base models just don't have all the add-on luxury bits) One of the more sublime bits of errata, is this bit... The wire splice between pins7,14 doesn't exist (red) -- the bridge on the cluster PCB between the same pins (green) does exist...but it's not 'there' physically...it's actually more towards the center of the PCB, exactly at the spot where they tend to crack...and if it does, only half the dash lights work... can drive you nuts chasing it ; don't ; just solder in the missing splice... These are 'intentional' soldered and taped splices inside the loom(s) ~ there's also unintentional splices like this, due to manufacturing process when a spool of one particular coloured wire runs out, and they splice in/on a new spool. Those splices above are in the loom, LHS, underneath the front guard panel (remove to get at loom)... if water's gotten into the looms, you can expect corrosion at these splices ... keep this stuff in mind, if in the future you get any weird electrical faults... 👍 -
that looks identical to the WGNC34 Stagea one I was poking around the other day. Is the other end of that not the ECU plug? If so checking continuity at both ends will tell you which ECU wire it is. I can start by telling you ECU pin 31 is the top of the large pins on the right in your second pic
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