Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

got a Garrett 2876r .64 offered to me for cheap as chips....

anyone know what it would be like on a 20? had a quick search, confusing results lol

I've heard they are no good on 20's. 2871 is the one you want. I think it's the 2876 that's a weird turbo, like the inlet and exhaust turbines are out of proportion, as a result it either has tonnes of lag, or no top end, can't remember.

yea, but then the occasional person reccomends as a good turbo for a 20....

im taking it to mtq tomorrow see what they say?

They are a bit of a dogs bollocks of a turbo. As others have said they are a mismatch. The 53.8mm turbine is even a bit to small for the 71mm compressor with a 2871 so with a 2876 you have the extra lag of the 76mm compressor but with no extra power to be made because the 53.8mm turbine is that limiting factor.

There are a few uses for this turbo but they are not conventional setups; like they are good in motor sport classes where you have a restrictor plate that limits the amount of air flow available to the compressor.

Garrett even give you a heads up on their info page for the 2876 where they say;

* Best suited for unique applications such as asymmetric turbo installations

* Not recommended for general performance applications

Edited by D_Stirls

Funniest thing happened the other day.

I was coming home from TTP back to Lobethal and I was going past Inglewood towards Chain of Ponds.

I was stuck behind this RED Commodore with; Chev badges, aftermarket HSV kit, racing stripes over the body, and 20 inch rims.

He was going very slow and once given the opportunity, I ,quite quickly may i add, overtook the commodore and continued on my way.

I then got to the intersection of cuddlee creek rd and tippett rd (behind the dam) and low and behold there comes the commodore screaming up behind me with what appeared to be red LED's on the front of the lights like some sort of angry demon.

I then turned off at the cafe at Cuddlee Creek when the bloke slowed down and i then copped an ear bashing about driving "jap crap" and the extent of his intelligence then came out with "skylines are for poofs, get a commodore!!"

He then screamed away with his V6 with some sort of exhaust changing gears manually in his auto car.

EPIC :stupid:

Yeah i had some guy on my ass yesterday in a VT/X with a VY bodykit, some shitty rims, the guy had on white frame oakleys at 5:00pm in winter with a singlet. Speaks volumes really.

just received a phone call from my local member of parliment - amanda rishworth - asking for my thoughts.

quite simply had 2 comments to make, first of all Adelaide NEEDS a motorsport complex, and secondly the rate of the pension (barely) covering costs of living.

She said she would be writing to the Govt. to push for the motorsport complex and would follow it up & eventually get back to me.

.......

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
×
×
  • Create New...