Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

So apparently my hotmail account has been blocked....the email account to send the recovery code to has been shutdown for years, go and try to recover the account and they want passwords and bank card details?!?!?!?!? sound dodgy??

2 things hotmail would never ask for is your passwords or bank details

I would disregard the email, but if your totally worried a little test dont click any links in that actual email but open your browser and go to hotmail.com and login should work fine

2 things hotmail would never ask for is your passwords or bank details

I would disregard the email, but if your totally worried a little test dont click any links in that actual email but open your browser and go to hotmail.com and login should work fine

I got the same 2 emails, there dodgy , they ask for info MSN wouldnt ask for ever

phishing scam

Shaft play?

do a video with the engine not your drivers seat..lol that would help unless it only happens on "loaded" boost ?

does it happen on a cold engine and hot ?

take a vacuum hose from house vacuum and put it one end on your ear, the other on the suss part you can hear the play,(dont melt the hose on the hot turbo or stick it in the fan..lol ) one thing to check is the valve train, too much clearance on the rocker or failing lifter. my r34 has solid lifters on series 2 neo motors and they make the same noise when out of spec .

if its the valve train hold it on the rocker cover and give it some throttle , the noise will jump out and be loud thru the hose. you can narrow it down to the exact location with it. unless you have a mechanics stethascope ?

How did you find that out boof through an email in your junk mail folder then click a link to reset your password?

All good problem sorted, was 3/4 asleep trying to sort that out...As soon as i logged in it told me the account was blocked and the email address that was in there to forward a new password onto has been non exsistent for about 5 years now...Got a new password and logged in ok :) Cheers anyways!!

do a video with the engine not your drivers seat..lol that would help unless it only happens on "loaded" boost ?

does it happen on a cold engine and hot ?

take a vacuum hose from house vacuum and put it one end on your ear, the other on the suss part you can hear the play,(dont melt the hose on the hot turbo or stick it in the fan..lol ) one thing to check is the valve train, too much clearance on the rocker or failing lifter. my r34 has solid lifters on series 2 neo motors and they make the same noise when out of spec .

if its the valve train hold it on the rocker cover and give it some throttle , the noise will jump out and be loud thru the hose. you can narrow it down to the exact location with it. unless you have a mechanics stethascope ?

yeah only happens when i engage my boost controller :/

and yeah only on loaded boost

i can notice when the boost increases

happens nearly most of the time

sometimes not :/

look at the video and listen really hard at 0:20 you will here it faint tickticktickticktick noise during boost

Mount your solenoid with rubber washers or a long bolt and a bit of rubber hose

PS: anyone with a R32 GT-R?

Got these for sale

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/381669-r32-gt-r-air-diversion-panels-2x/

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
    • Did you find that your voltage of the battery wasn't where it's normally supposed to be? for example on my r34, it's at 14.5v when running after a few seconds, but I noticed when I had a rough start and it initially wasn't idling correctly, the voltage on my triple gauge cluster was showing lower than usual. Seems like the alternator is starting to crap itself
×
×
  • Create New...