Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well f**king said, best clutch ever.

Don't know about it being the "Best clutch ever" but for the type of applications we're talking in here, it's def my pick of the bunch.

My GTR had approx 340 awkw (and I think you're not far off that Luke) and the clutch was more than ample.

If we're talking 400 + awkw (like Flyboy's 32) then there are other clutches out there that would be better suited...........but at that sort of power, the cars are not usually "Dailys" anymore so forgiving clutches are not really a priority anymore either :D

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Don't know about it being the "Best clutch ever" but for the type of applications we're talking in here, it's def my pick of the bunch.

My GTR had approx 340 awkw (and I think you're not far off that Luke) and the clutch was more than ample.

If we're talking 400 + awkw (like Flyboy's 32) then there are other clutches out there that would be better suited...........but at that sort of power, the cars are not usually "Dailys" anymore so forgiving clutches are not really a priority anymore either :D

Correction, best street clutch for a nicely fettled GTR

Heard some good news today, my head and sump should be ready towards the end of next week. Once I have them, I can ramp up the engine build...current ETA is end of September :banana:

For those of you interested in what work I am having done

Head;

Beefy Port Job

Upgraded Springs - Performance Springs

Valve Seals

Tomei 256 8.5mm Cams

General Recondition

Sump;

Extended

Baffled

Catch Can Return

Head Drain Return

A battery charger that charges NORMAL batteries up to 20 times? Awesome! About time they cracked the technology.

http://www.dealme.com.au/deal/national/battery-charger-normal-alkaline-and-re-chargeable-/

I look forward to seeing many of you peeps for the Senna Movie and dinner tonight! Sorry, it is Club members only, for those that aren't.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/46/140km.jpg

YO DAWG I HEARD YOU LIKE TO SLIDE SO WE PUT A SLIDER IN YOUR SLIDER SO YOU CAN SLIDE WHEN YOU SLIDE

I see a Huffy slider... But I don't see the slider it has allegedly been placed in..?

Feel free to point out its whereabouts. I'm sure it's one of those trick pictures that you have to stare at for ages to see it.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...