Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have a bit of an issue with my GTR. When it was just running, it would idle at ~ 1500rpm. So a quick search on the net pretty much summed my problem up.. I had cleaned the throttle bodies while the engine was in bits, and seems like i created the problem for myslef. So the painful process of removing the inlet manifold and throttle bodies to investigate started. The manifold is off, and I inspected the throttle bodies, to find that they were not closing all the way due to some of the (nissan coating) still being there. So now i cleaned them all the way, and they look quite sparkly inside.. I had a look at all the parts, and found that one of the O'rings needed replacing as well, but no matter where I go, I cant find a place to buy them.. I bought new gaskets for the throttle bodies, but dont want to be in a position where i would need to pull them off again.

Anyone know where I can get some of these? and is there anyone that can suggest something similar to the coating that nissan use, rather then using silicone as suggested on a DIY fix. I heard that some of the performance shops dont bother with this, but i would rather be sure..

Am I on the right track or completely wrong..

Some images are here.

Any help is appreciated.

post-16376-0-22257600-1306214215_thumb.jpg

post-16376-0-95816900-1306214387_thumb.jpg

post-16376-0-28090200-1306214430_thumb.jpg

Thanks.

Mark.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365416-r33gtr-idling/
Share on other sites

Yeah thought about that..

But luckily, I can't see light looking through them.. So I think they are still fine.. I would not wanna risk it tho, so therefore would just get the orings replace them, and she should be ok.. Worst case I will use just a very fine coat of silicone, but did not wanna go down that route.

Thinking about taking them to a performance shop to see what they think.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365416-r33gtr-idling/#findComment-5830396
Share on other sites

If u can see light around the butterfly valve then u have now killed ur throttle bodies. Get some 2nd

Hand ones.

I did exactly what u did on my 1st build. Ur car will now idle at 2500rpm.

lolwut??

Firstly, whats wrong with the 'oring'? Are you talking about the orange dust cover? Looks fine to me.

Apart from the fact the old throttle plate sealer was stopping the butterflys from closing, the other problem you have is that you cleaned it all out!!

You can get the butterfly sealant. This needs to be in there if you want your idle back.

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19326&cat=&page=2

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365416-r33gtr-idling/#findComment-5831282
Share on other sites

Thanks for all your help guys.

I will post some pics on what i have decided to do. But I will apply a coating, there is still some light poking through..

The end bits are just dust covers by the look of it, and I was told as long as i coat around the butterfly shaft, I wont need to replace them.

Basically stripped the throttle bodies, and polishing them while I am at it..

Thanks heaps again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365416-r33gtr-idling/#findComment-5832332
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...