Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys some of you know that i have spent the last 2 years slowly building my r32 gtr up

got it back from the tuner on saterday and was quite serprised to hear that the car made 401.2hp @ ONLY 15psi

when i first got told the power reading i was abit upset but i then found out it was at 15psi because boostcontroler is stufed

so i gess im asking does this sound about right because i thought it was abit high because i was only expexting 450hp@20psi

and do you think i will be able to crack the 500hp mark on pump fuel keeping in mind that im willing to push 24psi into it.

mods

fresh built bottom end stock stroke

mild port polish head

1.4mm head gasket (i think)

tomei type b cams

cam gears left at 0

GT2860-5 (port mached to manifolds and other slight mods done by me) :whistling:

tomei manifolds

tomei dumps

HKS front pipes

HKS silent cat back

decat pipe

HKS 100mm intercooler

ARC intake box

nismo AFM's

hard intercooler piping kit

Apexi PFC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365465-will-i-make-500hp/
Share on other sites

400hp = 300kw = 250rwkw (approx).

On 15psi something is very wrong.

Now if you actually mean 400RWHP...

400rwhp = 300rwkw

15psi, that result is probably a little bit low, but put 20psi in and it should wake right up.

I have 365rwkw @ 19psi with some timing pulled out, stock cams/manifolds/cooler/airbox.

Also have tomei dumps, which made no difference when compared to other cars with stock dumps (other than the exhaust note change).

what ever any one says is purely a guess, heres what you do:

1) Get a working boost controller

2) Put it back on the dyno

3) Wind the boost up as high as possible

4) Come back and let us know how it went! :thumbsup:

It could be a possibility?

but i think its a little harder to get to that 500rwhp mark.

400rwhp is easy, most GTR's with a simle upgraded turbo like the 2860's will hit 300kw with injectors, fuel pump with an ECU change.

then you have to look at AFM's to get more, then for me at around 370rwkw i'm getting flow issues. don't know whether its an exhaust or STD intercooler.

I'm pumping 23psi through -5's and am stuck at 370rwkw, i have a ARC cooler to go on so hopefully it'll help the top end. other than that it could be exhaust (3in) or the fact that i still have STD cams.

every motor is different, i think it also makes a difference how they've been put together.

there is another GTR that was built at the same place as mine with almost identical parts. but mine was put together by the owner and the other one was built by a worker that doesnt work there anymore. and mine makes more power than his and is better over the whole power curve.

But if your goal is 500rwhp then be prepared to pay the big $$$ for little gains.

I've found with my GTR to get over 350rwkw costs much more than it does to get to 350rwkw.

just my 2c

^ 3" exhaust is almost certainly where your issue is.

Needs to be at least 3.5".

I'm making the same power, 4psi less. Stock cams/cooler.

only really is i have a larger exhaust, you should change that before the cooler! :thumbsup:

You are talking about 375rwkw, not a difficult task for the -5s as far as known results go.

I think as long as your exhaust is adequately sized, and you have the fuel and management to match, you should hit your mark. As stated already its fairly motor dependent and I am always one for a factory built motor (400rwkw factory RB26 just isn't the ticket unfortunately).

Try look up Elrodeo666, hes made 600whp on his -5s from memory... Which is what I believe the envelope holds for these turbos. Motor built by HKS Japan themselves.

GL

HKS Silent cat back.....hmmmm

With 400hp @ 15psi currently. All else being equal you would get 465hp at 20psi and 515hp at 24psi. So you should get to 500hp between 22 or 23psi - if nothing causes a decrease in efficiency.

I'd like to see a MPH to back that result up first though as always, im dubious. Given it's a good 30-40rwkw more than any other result ever seen in the pages here. I don't care if NASA built the motor! :ninja:

lol agreed. Never know, it just might have ceramic plating on the exterior for re-entry!

Be it myself building one of these cars I would be aiming for over 400rwkw on a sorted 3L motor, with -5s.. That being said is money on its own... The question really does raise as to how much better it would be to a T04Z sized turbo, and with technology like the EFR's what the future holds for said setups is anyone's guess.

That's a whole other thread on its own I guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • -9s are discontinued supposedly. But you can still get Nismo R3 turbos which are something like a -7 but subtly different? -7s are also available. HKS GTIII-SS and GTIII-2530 are also available but they're journal bearing MHI turbos.
    • Late to this party but here is your go to shop in perth - https://www.facebook.com/gsautoworksau GTSBOY is on the money cost wise, drive in and out will cost you 15-30k or more.    Some items that will save you money  - plug in link ecu g4x is much cheaper than haltech.   -Pulsar turbo, seem to be "OK" now, never used one myself You really don't have to build the motor, E85, headgasket, studs and a good RB26 will live for ever.    Swapping over the twins won't save much as you still need ecu, tune, fuel system etc.          
    • Welcome back to the scene! Godzilla Motorsports were well regarded back in the day.  My GT-R had work done there prior to my ownership.   SRS (Street Race Solutions) in Toowoomba worth a look.  They've built some pretty wild Skylines. Their YouTube channel is comedic to watch!  I'm sure they're all on the glass BBQ but they get shit done! 🤣
    • Hard to say what the extra connector is, it looks a bit like a coax type connector, so possibly a separate radio/GPS antenna, or even another camera input?  The V37 series (including the Q50), did go through a model refresh in 2020, since Australia didn't get any Q50s newer than 2019, we didn't get any of the refreshed models, so there could also be other unexpected problems to overcome to swap an older Q50 head unit into a new model V37. There probably aren't too many people around that have made these sorts of changes to a Q50/V37, so you might end up being the first if you do decide to go ahead. ACP is Apple Car Play and AA is Android Auto, they are roughly the same thing for the 2 major phone operating systems (Apple's iOS and Android), it allows you to connect your phone and access a number of your phone applications on your car system.  With Nav apps included, so you could use google maps/Waze or whatever your favourite navigation app is, instead of using the built in navi system.  I think this would be a better solution if it is only Navigation that you are looking as swapping the head unit for. GPS signals are the same around the globe as the GPS satellites continuously circle the globe, but it is the head unit that doesn't allow you to load Australian maps, or at least no-one had made an Australian map that will load up on the JDM head unit. Regarding the TV standards, I assume you are referring to the AV inputs?  I haven't ever tried to use them, Japan used a slightly modified version of the US NTSC system, and Australia uses PAL for composite video, that said, I wouldn't be surprised if a video input could work with either system.  That is mostly irrelevant here though, unless you plan to use those inputs for something?
    • If you've got bucket loads of $. Go single. If not, just upgrade the twins, Garrett -9's or whatever the current equivalent is for a healthy 350awkw and leave it at that. Will probably still cost you 10k to do in this day and age.
×
×
  • Create New...