Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys some of you know that i have spent the last 2 years slowly building my r32 gtr up

got it back from the tuner on saterday and was quite serprised to hear that the car made 401.2hp @ ONLY 15psi

when i first got told the power reading i was abit upset but i then found out it was at 15psi because boostcontroler is stufed

so i gess im asking does this sound about right because i thought it was abit high because i was only expexting 450hp@20psi

and do you think i will be able to crack the 500hp mark on pump fuel keeping in mind that im willing to push 24psi into it.

mods

fresh built bottom end stock stroke

mild port polish head

1.4mm head gasket (i think)

tomei type b cams

cam gears left at 0

GT2860-5 (port mached to manifolds and other slight mods done by me) :whistling:

tomei manifolds

tomei dumps

HKS front pipes

HKS silent cat back

decat pipe

HKS 100mm intercooler

ARC intake box

nismo AFM's

hard intercooler piping kit

Apexi PFC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365465-will-i-make-500hp/
Share on other sites

400hp = 300kw = 250rwkw (approx).

On 15psi something is very wrong.

Now if you actually mean 400RWHP...

400rwhp = 300rwkw

15psi, that result is probably a little bit low, but put 20psi in and it should wake right up.

I have 365rwkw @ 19psi with some timing pulled out, stock cams/manifolds/cooler/airbox.

Also have tomei dumps, which made no difference when compared to other cars with stock dumps (other than the exhaust note change).

what ever any one says is purely a guess, heres what you do:

1) Get a working boost controller

2) Put it back on the dyno

3) Wind the boost up as high as possible

4) Come back and let us know how it went! :thumbsup:

It could be a possibility?

but i think its a little harder to get to that 500rwhp mark.

400rwhp is easy, most GTR's with a simle upgraded turbo like the 2860's will hit 300kw with injectors, fuel pump with an ECU change.

then you have to look at AFM's to get more, then for me at around 370rwkw i'm getting flow issues. don't know whether its an exhaust or STD intercooler.

I'm pumping 23psi through -5's and am stuck at 370rwkw, i have a ARC cooler to go on so hopefully it'll help the top end. other than that it could be exhaust (3in) or the fact that i still have STD cams.

every motor is different, i think it also makes a difference how they've been put together.

there is another GTR that was built at the same place as mine with almost identical parts. but mine was put together by the owner and the other one was built by a worker that doesnt work there anymore. and mine makes more power than his and is better over the whole power curve.

But if your goal is 500rwhp then be prepared to pay the big $$$ for little gains.

I've found with my GTR to get over 350rwkw costs much more than it does to get to 350rwkw.

just my 2c

^ 3" exhaust is almost certainly where your issue is.

Needs to be at least 3.5".

I'm making the same power, 4psi less. Stock cams/cooler.

only really is i have a larger exhaust, you should change that before the cooler! :thumbsup:

You are talking about 375rwkw, not a difficult task for the -5s as far as known results go.

I think as long as your exhaust is adequately sized, and you have the fuel and management to match, you should hit your mark. As stated already its fairly motor dependent and I am always one for a factory built motor (400rwkw factory RB26 just isn't the ticket unfortunately).

Try look up Elrodeo666, hes made 600whp on his -5s from memory... Which is what I believe the envelope holds for these turbos. Motor built by HKS Japan themselves.

GL

HKS Silent cat back.....hmmmm

With 400hp @ 15psi currently. All else being equal you would get 465hp at 20psi and 515hp at 24psi. So you should get to 500hp between 22 or 23psi - if nothing causes a decrease in efficiency.

I'd like to see a MPH to back that result up first though as always, im dubious. Given it's a good 30-40rwkw more than any other result ever seen in the pages here. I don't care if NASA built the motor! :ninja:

lol agreed. Never know, it just might have ceramic plating on the exterior for re-entry!

Be it myself building one of these cars I would be aiming for over 400rwkw on a sorted 3L motor, with -5s.. That being said is money on its own... The question really does raise as to how much better it would be to a T04Z sized turbo, and with technology like the EFR's what the future holds for said setups is anyone's guess.

That's a whole other thread on its own I guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...