Dry Sumps And You.......

[JET200]

The more stages the more oil you can circulate and the more vacuum you will pull in the crank case.

On a race car I normally use either a 4 or 5 stage. On a milder street car/weekend car I'd go a 3-4 stage tops.

Alot of people use a 4 stage and scavenge 2 from the sump and one from the head. It's not wrong but it's not ideal. The idea is create vacuum In the crank case and putting a scavenger in the head is not exactly helping to draw the oil to the sump pan where the remaining majority scavengers are trying to work.

Vacuum is always equal in all directions if the container ( engine) is sealed so scavenging from the head won't effect the vacuum levels but it is best if you can get all the oil flowing in one direction with gravity to the bottom.

With a 4 stage I'd normally run three pick ups in a sump channel. One from one center and one rear. With a five stage like my old race car had I'd use two channels one in front of the subframe one behind both with two scavengers feeding from them.

There is hundreds of sump design ideas out there nothing is really right or wrong, people scavenge in all different ways from all different positions.

I'd be interested to hear from others as to what they do with their scavengers and positioning.

On my road car I have a 3 stage to use. Two scavengers one at the rear ( scavenger on acceleration) and one 1/3 the way down the pan towards the front ( enough for heavy braking but far enough back to scavenge on acceleration too) usually with a 3 stage you will end up with excess oil in the pan, depending on the sump and channel design.

I'm doing a pan for an s15 at the moment for a 4 stage Peterson pump. The pump will be build into the pan and have internal scavengers when it takes some shape I'll put up some photos.

Our Motive DVD S14 time attack car needs a dry sump due to oil surge at high g-force.

interested to see what you come up with

[bigmikespec]

This thread seems really appropriate considering I had my first go at hacking up a standard sump to design my own dry sump pan. I have a bit of an idea on what I want to achieve but still not 100% decided on the final design. I am thinking something like the below... all the designs seem very similar. I will be putting the baffle plates back in and also make a fancy crank scraper to help.

I am thinking two pick ups in the rear and two in the front. The way it is divided because of the front shaft is really annoying.

[Risking]

Mike cut the lip right off and make the sump floor flat.

Don't angle it upwards towards the lip,

I can send you down a "kit" ready to shape and weld together of you like.

Just need to cut the sump to suit and thrown it in a mill to get a spot on flat surface to begin with.

[bigmikespec]

Mike cut the lip right off and make the sump floor flat.

Don't angle it upwards towards the lip,

I can send you down a "kit" ready to shape and weld together of you like.

Just need to cut the sump to suit and thrown it in a mill to get a spot on flat surface to begin with.

Email sent Brad

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Sorry for the noob questions.

What are the options for an RB25 or RB30 block as far as sumps ?

Other than the Hi-Octane one, are there any alternates ?

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=1828

Or would it be cheaper to use an RB26 dry sump and block off the diff holes ?

Is there any reason that you have to make the sump flat bottomed and reduce the holding capacity, or is it possible to use a normal 5litre sump, and then further increase the volume with an additional dry sump tank ?

[bigmikespec]

Shallower the pan the better it stops oil from moving around in a large area where it can get agitated and aerated.

[Beer Baron]

Sorry for the noob questions.

What are the options for an RB25 or RB30 block as far as sumps ?

Other than the Hi-Octane one, are there any alternates ?

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=1828

Or would it be cheaper to use an RB26 dry sump and block off the diff holes ?

Is there any reason that you have to make the sump flat bottomed and reduce the holding capacity, or is it possible to use a normal 5litre sump, and then further increase the volume with an additional dry sump tank ?

Lol, the whole reason it's called a "dry sump" is because the sump pan on the engine is no longer used to store the engine oil. Hence it being dry.

There's just no need and in fact it's detrimental having all that oil sloshing around in there.

No point using a 26 sump on your 25 or 30. A fabricator can mod your current sump for use in a dry sump system easily.

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Lol, the whole reason it's called a "dry sump" is because the sump pan on the engine is no longer used to store the engine oil. Hence it being dry.

There's just no need and in fact it's detrimental having all that oil sloshing around in there.

No point using a 26 sump on your 25 or 30. A fabricator can mod your current sump for use in a dry sump system easily.

Thanks

[N I B]

Its easy to make an RB dry sump. All the RB Racecars i have here use Drysumps and it 100% solved all the Bearing problems we were having and by using large pumps we seal the engines and gained more power due to negative crank case pressure.

[bigmikespec]

What pumps are you using and how much vacuum?

[Super_Dude]

What kind of clearences are you guys running with dry sumps? Im running a built rb30 and a weaver 4 stage pump with the journals and rods at .015 but im going to open them up to around .03. Is this still good for a dry sumped motor?

[Risking]

If anyone has a spare rb25 pan laying around I'll grab it off then and make up a dry sump pan to put photos up of how I'd do one.

I've made plenty in the past but hadn't ever bothered taking photos of them.

There is plenty of different ways to do it but once people see photos of how it can be done itll become common knowledge.

[bigmikespec]

If anyone has a spare rb25 pan laying around I'll grab it off then and make up a dry sump pan to put photos up of how I'd do one.

I've made plenty in the past but hadn't ever bothered taking photos of them.

There is plenty of different ways to do it but once people see photos of how it can be done itll become common knowledge.

Don't forget me Brad

[GTS-t VSPEC]

If anyone has a spare rb25 pan laying around I'll grab it off then and make up a dry sump pan to put photos up of how I'd do one.

I've made plenty in the past but hadn't ever bothered taking photos of them.

There is plenty of different ways to do it but once people see photos of how it can be done itll become common knowledge.

That would be awesome

[bigmikespec]

Brad, sent you an email give me a call mate if you can

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Brad,

What are your thoughts on this design ?

[bigmikespec]

Is that for an RB25? That is a very common design... looks consistent with what I have seen; looks good.

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Is that for an RB25? That is a very common design... looks consistent with what I have seen; looks good.

RB30, but would also work for RB25.

[Risking]

Look okay.

I'm not a fan of large channels like that I rekon they are too wide and allow the oil to ride up the wall a it gains momentum.

A narrow deeper channel prevents the oil from "picking up speed" and riding up the wall of the channel.

I've almost finished off a new barra 6cylinder pan which I'll post up photos of tomorrow before it goes to get made in carbon. It's a big setup with a 6 stage Dailey engineering pump.

[N I B]

Ill try get some picks of a Car in at the moment. My sumps have much smaller oil channels than the above pics and are very well proven.