Jump to content
SAU Community

Dry Sumps And You.......


Recommended Posts

I'm releasing a fantastic new oil setup at the moment which is a hybrid dry/wet sump system.

Using a 9L fabricated sump, 2 stage pump and a "surge tank"

The single scavenge stage draws from the 9L sump and fills a 2.5L resiviour (surge tank) mounted inside the wheel arch or engine bay. The single pressure stage draws from the resiviour and pressurizes the engine.

From the top of the resiviour a return back to the sump allows the tank to breath and overflow.

Pro's

As good at controlling surge as a full on dry sump

Far cheaper than a dry sump

Less plumbing

External pump so no breakages!

Lower weight not having the large tank and lines

So far testing has been faultless with perfect oil pressure logs when running on slicks.

I've also just completed the first prototype resiviour to fit into the original space occupied by the washer bottle on the R32.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ryan I have two Vehicles already doing some laps. One is an r32 GTR and the other is an r33 GTST RB25.

So far pricing is on a case by case basis as I'm insisting on doing the installation myself or atleast controlling it due to the nature of the setup not really having been done before.

Bracket, balancer, and drive kit are identical to dry dump parts. Sump is a modified version on my normal 9L sump, pump is a two stage and the surge tank is obviously custom.

Send me a email if your keen to get a quote and have one done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Sorry to revive this excellent thread but one quick question

Is it still necessary to enlarge the block oil returns and restrict the block feed orifices when running dry sump setup?

Obviously enlarged returns will benefit no matter but if the engine is already assembled then how much off a disadvantage will it be on dry sump setup?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry to revive this excellent thread but one quick question

Is it still necessary to enlarge the block oil returns and restrict the block feed orifices when running dry sump setup?

Obviously enlarged returns will benefit no matter but if the engine is already assembled then how much off a disadvantage will it be on dry sump setup?

Thanks

I'd also like to know this.

Do I still need to run the restrictors in the block? Or will the vacuum in the engine be enough to suck the oil back down without any issues with the bigger head feeds.

I shot you an email also brad, haven't heard back yet, I understand your busy! see if you could look out for it. keen to get this sorted asap.

Also, I have seen many circuit cars run -12 and -10 lines for the dry sump, and then many run -12 and -16 lines.

Is it wrong to run the smaller lines? can it cause issues? or will it all work to an extent?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

hey, being a noob to dry sump etc, the one thing i havent seen on here is where the pressure line is fed back into the block? doe it run through a cooler and into the block via the filter port???, and wat do u do with the stock pump? take the gears out and block it up or something like that? any info would be much appreciated

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Theres another thread?

Referring the thread to Risking (Pro Fabrication) and why the previous poster should probably reconsider pursuing this avenue.

Edit: nm - beaten to it

Edited by warps
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are you doing with the car? street car or race car? People get hung up on the squat of the s/r chassis rears. There is positives to the squat if a car is setup and driven correctly for it (correct ride height, spring rate, alignment, damper valving). Generally just lengthen the rear traction arm by 5-10mm and that will help the squat and bump steer too. You are also correct with the roll centre too. This too also needs to be adjustable if you start messing with suspension geometry.   Having done quiet a bit of testing on race cars this year in regards to rear squat, I've seen some big positives from it in regards to drive off corners and traction. 
    • I find I am using the MX5 for everything except long overnight cruises with Jackie, or, if picking up the kids to go somewhere, the SS has so much more room inside, and is much more comfortable if your going to be doing Hwy driving for 6-8 hours And the MX5 isn't bad in stop go traffic for a manual transmission car, whilst the clutch kit has been upgraded from stock, it is still light, and also not having a stupidly light flywheel in it helps as well, I've spent alot of time sitting on the M5, M4 and M7 stuck in traffic when plodding around the Greater Sydney Region in it Another benefit is MX5's are not really a car that gets stolen, you can pretty much park it anywhere, and it will still be there when you return
    • I can totally get why you like it for that sort of commute. I was thinking BoganDore because it's such a lazy drive, for things like stop start traffic.   I used to do over an hour in stop start shit from one side of Bris to the next, twice a day. My choice of car was larger displacement, with an auto. Basically for torque in low rpm/very low speed, and no clutch pedal. But loved a fun manual for the weekends, which the partner has (plus had the LandCruiser too for other fun drives). I now have an EV as a work car, and I tell ya what, ultimate daily driver, especially if youre out of energy, like I often am after work. I don't even need to touch the brake pedal   That said, I'm presently rebuilding the Liberty GTB to get it setup for weekend drives and track abuse! So small high revving turbo engine with 6 speed cog swapper!   But for your style of commute, I'd probably take the MX5 too!   For those choices, I'm ignoring fuel economy. Because I know how atrocious V8 daily life is for fuel from when I used to daily a manual SS, ha ha. Hence why I know I love the daily rumble of a V8
    • II know what u are saying after 9 years of hibernating my stock engined  110,00km gtt I got it registered 2 weeks ago. Took it for a drive a couple of days ago and some fresh bp fuel, I just couldn’t stop grinning and dreaming of when I will start my build thread. its just such a primal man feeling many forget to enjoy I wish u so much enjoyment with your little racer mate
    • People just don't understand how good MX5's actually are and how fun they are to drive, park, manuever. You feel like you have got some fun cheat code, while everyone else is sitting in their luxobargeSUV like normies who missed the point of living. It really is that noticable. As long as you/your stuff fit, and you're comfortable (they are), a MX5 is the best car on earth to daily around.
×
×
  • Create New...