Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I changed my gearbox oil recently and there was a fair bit of shredded metal in it. If this is an indication that my box is on its way out, what's the best way to go about fixing it after it blows? I'd rather fix it than buy a 2nd hand one, which may be in the same condition as the one I'm replacing.

Should I pull it apart and just replace the worn/broken bits, or do the whole lot? I can probably do the work myself if I had a workshop manual with proper torque settings for the bolts etc, but if not I think I'd better get a transmission place to do it. Are there any decent transmission places in Sydney that could rebuild it for me for not too much money?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/
Share on other sites

When you say a fair bit of shredded metal, how much are we talking...

The reason I ask, is because the gearbox plug is magnetised, and as such all the metal shards tend to stick to it.

It's not necessary a sign that your box is on the way out, just general wear and tear!

matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-59991
Share on other sites

Hmm, don't really know how to quantify it :rolleyes: A few grams maybe? Enough to fit in your hand but not a handful. I've thrown it all out so I'm relying on my dodgy memory. Touch wood that it's not about to die, I was just trying to figure out what to do should the worst case happen. Synchro's are a little worn on 2nd and 3rd, but I've got some Redline oil in there now which should hopefully improve things.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-59999
Share on other sites

I don't think it had ever been changed. The service manual specifies 100,000km for "business" use, or *never* for private use! :eek: It's done about 88000km so far, so I guess it may not be an extraordinarily large amount of metal to come out after that time.

Anyway the issue isn't whether or not it's about to die (some boxes with no symptoms of wearing out still blow) but what I should do if it happens. I'd rather know what to do before it blows then try to find out after the event :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-60006
Share on other sites

Originally posted by JimX

Redline oil in there now which should hopefully improve things.

G'day Jimx,

Which Redline are you using? Any noticeable improvements since switching to Redline in the box?

The reason I ask is, I too use Redline (in the diff) & am about to try "Shockproof" in my box.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-60758
Share on other sites

So far it's stopped crunching going into 5th, but it still crunches slightly going into 2nd and 3rd until the oil warms up. When everything's warm then there's no crunch at all. Apparently after a few weeks it's meant to improve some more, but I've only had it in the car less than a week before I had the accident, so I'll have to wait until I get it back from the workshop before I can see how it goes from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-60785
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
    • Time: Saturday 18th January - 9am -10:30am Where:  Cafe By Lamanna 10 English St, Essendon Fields VIC 3041  - https://g.co/kgs/mhVKvAB Registration: So we can give the cafe a heads up on rough booking numbers please rsvp below Registration Link: https://forms.gle/wPtfj9Gp8bvCiouo8
    • Welcome Gabriel. At least your car has a glorious RB and not the shitty CA18. As MBS206 mentioned all the good bits can be added later. Two doors or four?
    • And half of them have been converted to turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...