Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 gearbox

JimX
 Share

Recommended Posts

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

I changed my gearbox oil recently and there was a fair bit of shredded metal in it. If this is an indication that my box is on its way out, what's the best way to go about fixing it after it blows? I'd rather fix it than buy a 2nd hand one, which may be in the same condition as the one I'm replacing.

Should I pull it apart and just replace the worn/broken bits, or do the whole lot? I can probably do the work myself if I had a workshop manual with proper torque settings for the bolts etc, but if not I think I'd better get a transmission place to do it. Are there any decent transmission places in Sydney that could rebuild it for me for not too much money?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/
Share on other sites
matlowth Proficient

matlowth

Posted
Posted

When you say a fair bit of shredded metal, how much are we talking...

The reason I ask, is because the gearbox plug is magnetised, and as such all the metal shards tend to stick to it.

It's not necessary a sign that your box is on the way out, just general wear and tear!

matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-59991
Share on other sites
JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm, don't really know how to quantify it :rolleyes: A few grams maybe? Enough to fit in your hand but not a handful. I've thrown it all out so I'm relying on my dodgy memory. Touch wood that it's not about to die, I was just trying to figure out what to do should the worst case happen. Synchro's are a little worn on 2nd and 3rd, but I've got some Redline oil in there now which should hopefully improve things.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-59999
Share on other sites
JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't think it had ever been changed. The service manual specifies 100,000km for "business" use, or *never* for private use! :eek: It's done about 88000km so far, so I guess it may not be an extraordinarily large amount of metal to come out after that time.

Anyway the issue isn't whether or not it's about to die (some boxes with no symptoms of wearing out still blow) but what I should do if it happens. I'd rather know what to do before it blows then try to find out after the event :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-60006
Share on other sites
whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by JimX

Redline oil in there now which should hopefully improve things.

G'day Jimx,

Which Redline are you using? Any noticeable improvements since switching to Redline in the box?

The reason I ask is, I too use Redline (in the diff) & am about to try "Shockproof" in my box.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-60758
Share on other sites
JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So far it's stopped crunching going into 5th, but it still crunches slightly going into 2nd and 3rd until the oil warms up. When everything's warm then there's no crunch at all. Apparently after a few weeks it's meant to improve some more, but I've only had it in the car less than a week before I had the accident, so I'll have to wait until I get it back from the workshop before I can see how it goes from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-60785
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...