Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey looking for a R33 s1 or s2..

Hoping for the following,

- Less than 150,000kms.

- As stock as possible (not a biggy if not).

- NO engine problems (being hopeful).

- Comes with RWC and REGO (doesnt have to be much as i will be driving back to darwin and getting NT REGO).

Max i will pay: $7500

PM me if you have something that you think I might be interested in..

cheers.

p.s. As stupid as it sounds I have a little pimped Hyundai Excel 1998 X3 and if your interested in a sporty looking, very fuel efficiant, very good condition car im willing to swap with money your way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365690-looking-for-r33/
Share on other sites

Hey mate. I'm looking for an r33 s2 myself. Sorry to burst your bubble but...r33 gtst's only go that cheap if they do have engine problems, over 150,000 k's and have no rego or rwc.

The cheapest I've seen one for is $8k. It's actually not that far down the forum list you should have a look at it. Not ire if it will meet all your criteria but it's certainly worth a look.

Like I said though, I would have a budget of more like $10-11k. That way you WILL meet all your criteria. That's my budget anyways and I'm looking for the same as you :)

Hopefully that helps mate. Good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365690-looking-for-r33/#findComment-5835018
Share on other sites

If you don't mind putting up with a few scratches and maybe fixing some problems $7.5k will get you something for sure. But if your not hands on and you want to cruise around in something that looks good and drives good and will be reliable...it doesn't hurt to pay a little bit more money for something slot better. $9k will get you something pretty stock and in great condition :) definatly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365690-looking-for-r33/#findComment-5835721
Share on other sites

yea i think dj manix is right ive got a 95 r33 gtst 4 door model only done 77 000 kms paint work is in excellent condition its dark grey but its got a fmic, lowered suspension, high flow turbo, bosch fuel pump and full 3inc di fillipo exhaust and id prob want at least 15k for it if i was goin to sell it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365690-looking-for-r33/#findComment-5838370
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...