Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm a new user to the forums. I was looking to purchase a Skyline R34 4 door sedan, prefferably manual.

I was wondering if anyone knew roughly what the price range would be and what would best be the way of getting one,

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365692-cost-of-r34-sedan/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

i purchased my R34 2 door manual for $7400 in Japan, with aftermarket rims so the 4 door should be a bit cheaper. after that its all the expenses in shipping and compliance..

Hope this helps out

So how much did you pay altogether to get it on the road?

i purchased my R34 2 door manual for $7400 in Japan, with aftermarket rims so the 4 door should be a bit cheaper. after that its all the expenses in shipping and compliance..

Hope this helps out

So about $13k - $15k landed and complied, give or take?

So how much did you pay altogether to get it on the road?

4 Doors will be a little bit cheaper. I would have a look at J-Spec Imports Auction Sale History so you can sort of put it all into perspective.

  • 2 weeks later...

those prices make me cry knowing what I paid for mine a few years back lol

Dropped down a lot eh? good if you want a sedan like i do, not so good if your trying to sell! ive listed my email address with J-spec imports, just waiting to hear back from them, bank wants too lend me the $ to get a 34 sedan but wont give it too me unless i provide them with an invoice or receipt or something that proves im gunna use the $ to buy a car!

GT -> Basic 2L

GT25 -> Same as GT, but with 2.5L engine.

GT-Four -> Same as GT25, but with AWD

GT-x -> Same as a GT25. Equivalent to a premium model equipment wise, ie. factory privacy glass, double din "premium sound", xenon headlights, front strut brace, optional LSD, optional GTt wheels.

GTt -> turbo model of a GT25, with big brakes, HICAS, LSD

GTt-x -> turbo model of a GT-x, with big brakes, HICAS, LSD

GTv -> Same as GT25, but with big brakes, HICAS, LSD

Steve - do not loan money For an import, ever...

At least not through a bank...

Talk to either kristian from iron chef, or Ben from j-spec they may know a broker with whom they deal with on repeat referral etc.

However a bank needs to loan money AGAINST something, ie: something they can take if you default on your payments,

For instance

Car loan = car. No payment? Seize car.

Home loan = house. No payment? Seize house.

Bank will not provide a car loan for a car that is in Japan that they cannot seize.

Basically all a bank can generally offer is a higher interest rate unsecured personal loan, however that been said, save as hard as you can..

Less money lent, is less interest you pay... When importing a ER34 they aren't expensive so saving should be a bit of a cakewalk really..

Don't be afraid to shop around and use a broker you can trust :)

Ironchefimports

Importmonster

Jspec

Direct imported (hopefully he's not still angry with me)

Are just to name a few - they're all very capable .. Hardworking and willing :)

But yeah, generally speaking, a bank will not "give you" a car loan on a car they cannot seize - unless of course... youre willing to pay credit card interest on a 10 grand loan :)

Basically all a bank can generally offer is a higher interest rate unsecured personal loan, however that been said, save as hard as you can..

Less money lent, is less interest you pay... When importing a ER34 they aren't expensive so saving should be a bit of a cakewalk really..

Don't be afraid to shop around and use a broker you can trust :)

Ironchefimports

Importmonster

Jspec

Direct imported (hopefully he's not still angry with me)

Are just to name a few - they're all very capable .. Hardworking and willing :)

But yeah, generally speaking, a bank will not "give you" a car loan on a car they cannot seize - unless of course... youre willing to pay credit card interest on a 10 grand loan :)

Thanks for the advice Rowan, will take it on board :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, im asking about this guy - coil igniter on rb25det series 1 r33 s1 engine. I need to know if pins on coil side indicate coils itself from 1-6 or it’s firing order so pin nr1 goes to 1st fired spark plug:(1pin-1firing spark, 2pin-5order firing spark, 3-3, 4-6, 5-2, 6-4…)   photo: https://files.fm/f/k9pdug38uq
    • Remove it. Certainly from the hub face. I'm not in love with leaving it on the wheel assembly surface either - but if it is common to do so, then....maybe fair enough. It's not difficult. Just time consuming. For the hub face you just need a large enough block and suitable grades of abrasive paper to get it off flat. The same would be true of the assembly face. Just more time consuming, probably needing a lot more care. It's defo going to be easier just to assemble the wheels as is, seal them up, and check them periodically to see if there's any movement or loosening of the fasteners, than it will be to remove it though.
    • Hello, I got my wheels powder coated and they've powder coated bloody everything the mating surface and hub (even told them not to lol) anyway should I leave it or remove it. (Would be very hard) I've searched a lot and lots of powder coaters don't mask the mating surface but do mask the hub surface. How bad it powder coat on the mating surface or hub? My question is what should I do?
    • Yeah, R34 with RB25DE likely has a 4AX01 box in it, which is a medium duty auto ~ with the RB25DET mill, it would've been fitted with 4AX00 (4AX13) heavy duty build (same case, different internals). An RB25DET will lunch on a medium duty 4R01 auto in pretty short order ...to give you some visual idea of differences between the 'medium' and 'heavy duty' boxes, you only have to look at the 2/4 band for comparison...it's chalk and cheese...(plus bigger high clutch, extra pinion in the planetary sets, higher oil pump output, different bearings, higher TC stall speed )... You can control them with just about any aftermarket TCU for electric-over 4-speed with TC lockup clutch (ie; the GM 4L60E and others)...I have a custom standalone TCU that includes MAP sensor (for turbo applications) along with TPS, RPM, and line pressure monitoring...in other words, I don't use any ECU signals...no real need to.
×
×
  • Create New...